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  2. Whens volvofest again?
  3. I should also add that I have a spare R space saver that can go with the car - as well as the one in the car. The dashboard phone cradle is a Brodit item for an HTC one M8. I can leave this in the car or remove it, it doesn't matter to me either way. I think it would be possible to adapt a Brodit cradle for another device to use the existing power supply - that was certainly my plan come upgrade time. It might also be worth leaving the power supply in there if a 5V supply was needed for, say, a dashcam.
  4. I was lead to believe you needed a wifi dongle to work with iOS. Be interesting how it works. Which software will you use?
  5. Today
  6. I've taken some pictures of the car today, I'll post them up below. It cleans up well but it's not without the odd blemish - expected of a car of this age & mileage. The wheels and tyres that are on the car in the pictures are my winter set. I intend to keep these in case I end up with a V70D5 that I can use them on. The wheels that will be on the car are pictured separately below. They're in good overall condition, one has minor kerb rash. The tyres are Yokohama AD08R and have between 5 and 8mm tread. The left hand tyres are probably a bit more worn due to the car seeing some action on clockwise circuits. I have been asked how much power the car has. It's never been on a dyno so I don't know, but the estimate from the TW bum dyno is 340 - 350 hp. As always, please ask any questions and I'll answer as quickly and honestly as I can. Thanks.
  7. I had all your symptoms and codes tried a used pem changed the fuel pressure sensor and filter and after 2 months of hell usually when driving steady I investigated the pumps themselves. The sock filter was damaged so I cleaned it out and replaced the sock, still got stalling on the motorway figured the pump was shot. Replaced the whole setup and all was better [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Just had a quick look last night and decided to try this for £21, hopefully if its decent I'll just leave it in the car for emergencies, otherwise return it for a refund. Someone else review
  9. Many thanks for advice so far ,my mission continues and I will be rechecking all wiring for damage/disconnection . Must admit it looks as if the pem module is favourite but this is arriving hopefully on friday. I have new o2 sensors on standby but no codes have been thrown and the readings from them seem normal. I have replaced all plugs with new quality and tested coil packs by interchanging with no proof of any misfire or codes. The strange thing about volvo diagnostics is that it can lead you down blind alleys and interactions between modules/sensors can sometimes point a false finger of blame at certain components. I will also have new thermostats ( one at lower operating temp of 87 deg) and coolant temperature sensor on standby for next phase of testing. If all else fails it only leaves an ecm/ecu which could be breaking down after certain time(hope not) because as I understand it there is no one who can repair test them,unless you know otherwise.? Cheers all, Tel.
  10. straight methanol.
  11. Yes, some of their pipework fits ok. The TCV is best avoided.
  12. Check for 8B crimps between the PEM and pump also some people use grease on the O ring on the body of the 34 joint closure and this can hold dirt allowing the ingress of dirt... The PEM can cause exactly the symptoms you have.
  13. Hello I have had almost the same symtoms on a 2001 V70 2.4T and it turned out to be a crack in the hose between the plastic pipe and the intercooler. Cheers Michael
  14. The last lot of meth i got was only 99.85% pure so i run 0.15% something else
  15. Yesterday
  16. So you guys had better bring some quick cars this year. I've been busy on mine...
  17. Yeah from what I've been reading myself that seems about right do you have any experience with any of the elevate products? Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  18. Cheers mate, Forgot to mention replaced crank sensor and cleaned exhaust vvt solenoid following previous code,now clear. Tel.
  19. Could be crank position sensor mate Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
  20. I am trying to sort out a most strange issue which is proving to elude any diagnostic/parts replacement options. My newly purchased V70 T5 manual which is my dream car starts perfect ,runs smoothly and boosts perfect to 6000 rpm (after warming up of course).After a short blast for approx 5 miles/5 mins the car then stutters ,loses boost with almighty lurching almost like popping a parachute out the back. This is only rectified by backing off on the throttle with only very light pedal pressure allowing any progress.If the car is nursed along from the outset the car will drive for quite a few more miles but as soon as any traffic in town is encountered and temp goes up it stalls and cuts out. I have checked all boost hoses,adjusted wastegate settings at 4.4 psi operating pressure as per IPD data.The bcs solenoid is functioning ok.I have changed MAF and MAP ,also FPS fuel pressure sensor. The fuel pump and filter have also been changed recently. Fuel runs at 400 kpa /58psi with a 20% duty cycle at tickover except just before a stall where today it fell to 200 kpa 29psi. The PEM is like new internally and pins are not corroded. The only codes I am getting now are ecm 290d ,fuel pressure too low ,ecm 2900 faulty signal ,ecm 212c long term trim too high. I am awaiting another used PEM from Lithuania ! to try. I have also tried unpugging FPS to run pump at full pressure but this only causes more problems (over fuelling) and risks cat damage . I am beginning to lose the will to live after one month of testing but its one step forward and two back at the moment. Being a retired telecoms engineer electronics dont normally phase me but this particular Lady is testing my patience. Any ideas appreciated.( preferably other than take to Volvo from all the horror stories I have read/I am a pensioner and do not have the lottery money they require) Regards. Tel.
  21. I wouldn't advise more than about 360BHP with a K16 unless the pistons and rods are changed.
  22. Basically the car pulls to the left ever so slightly and the steering gets heavy. But to solve this when i take the power steering reservoir cap off and turn the steering lock to lock a few times the car drives as straight as an arrow and the steering feels a little lighter. It's had a new cap. The reservoir had residue on it when i bought it but that was because the previous owner over filled the reservoir. There is also a slight weep at the join in the ps hose at the front of the engine Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
  23. Hello everyone, I am the proud owner of my old faithfull T5 which has now only just run in with 250000 miles and has served me well for many years. After many years of searching I have finally found my dream car which is a 2005 v70 T5 se .6 speed manual with sunroof.! All is not rosy however and I have just spent a month throwing parts at her in an effort to sort some problems out. My hope is that advice from experienced members can help me resolve the issues and I can live in harmony with my car. Best wishes to all. Tel.
  24. No worries at all like I said had all cambelt work done so just needing a block mod wanting to push 300+ bhp and possible k16 upgrade in future. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  25. The Silver C70 hasn't been used much and over several months of just giving it a routine wash, was bloody hard work and the body definitely needed claying. I really couldn't be bothered with the time and effort needed with a clay bar unless I'm doing to a full detail so pondered over a clay mitt for a few months seeing online reviews etc. and then decided to give the Farecla G3 Mitt a go, with a being a branded reputable product. USAGE Got mine from Amazon, no issues. Everyone does it their own way and mine is below; 1. Wash car (2 buckets, Meguairs Gold Class) 2. Rinse 3. Refill wash bucket with fresh water and Gold Class 4. Go over the car with the G3 Clay Mitt (working it in straight lines and no pressure) 5. Rinse 6. Quick final wash using 2 bucket method and a lambs wool mitt. EASE OF USE The silver car needed claying quite badly and thus required about 4 - 5 passes on the worst/common areas until I could hear smoothness. Despite this, I probably averaged about 1 panel every 1 min 30 seconds whilst still taking it easy. The mitt allows for longer strokes and greater surface area being covered with each pass, so it is a quick and effective way of claying and great for routine maintenance. Also as you slip your hand inside it, there's no risk of it dropping on the floor (unless your a clumsy so and so). The end result was that I was happy the body was baby butt smooth, allowing for effortlessly applying a quick layer of wax. (Its not a detail, just thorough wash and some protection). A finish that I've not seen on the silver C70 for quite some time with good clarity on the reflections and impressively smooth on the touch. CONCLUSION If doing a full on detail, then I'd still prefer to use the clay bar (or even mix the 2 using the Mitt first), especially for the tricky areas but, this clay mitt is great for routinely maintaining good paint work offering a fast and effective way to clay your car. 9/10!
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