ProStreetDriver

Full Members
  • Content count

    28
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About ProStreetDriver

  • Rank

Previous Fields

  • Model of Volvo
    854 (Saloon 850)
  • Location (County)
    Non UK Member
  • Location (Town/City)
    Ontario, Canada

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUn4dgXsplw Video tutorial on how to apply CQuartz nano coating to your wheels. CQuartz a nano ceramic coating that takes place of wax which is supposed to last about two years. The coating is 2-3 microns on thickness, therefore is does add a layer above your vehicle’s paint. It is will protect your vehicles paint from water etching, scratching, uv light, acid rain, bugs, and also has hydrophobic qualities preventing dirt from sticking. Beyond wheels, the procedure shown in the video can also be applied to the vehicles paint. Towards the end of the video I will be giving away coupon codes to 5 lucky viewers for microfiber towels. Tools/Supplies Needed: -CQuartz nano coating -Reload spray -2 microfiber clothes -microfiber drying towel -air compressor -soap -bucket of water -wash mitt or pad -respirator mask -rubber gloves -polishing compounds -1:1 mixture of distilled water and isopropyl Procedure: -start by washing the wheels, removing any dirt or contaminants -use a soap that won’t leave a residue as this may cause adhesion problems -once done, dry the wheels to prevent any water spots from occurring along with removing pooling water which can cause issues with the nano coating -if there is any surface imperfections, now is the time to correct this using a paint correction method -otherwise if it is not done, well it will be sealed into the surface until the CQuartz has worn off in a couple years -next using a mixture a 1:1 mixture of distilled water and 70% rubbing alcohol, spray it onto a microfiber cloth and wipe down the surface to remove any contamination -wear gloves from this point on to prevent the oil from our skin contaminating the surface as well -considering the nano coating will be applied to both sides of the wheel, I will be decontaminating both sides of the wheel then -mix the bottle of nano coating accordingly, then apply a line to the suede cloth -work it into the surface -be extremely careful not to get any runs as it will dry as a run just like paint -on those hard to reach areas, remove the suede pad and wipe in on by hand -you can also use a q-tip as a backer if desired -work in multiple directions ensuring the whole surface is evenly covered -do not work in direct sunlight as this will cause application issues -once done, allow it to setup for about a minute and then wipe off the access coating with the suede polishing cloth -it can be hard to see on lighter colors, but you will want to look carefully at the gloss and look for any hazing or smudging -the hazing is the access coating that needs to be polished with the suede polishing cloth -now with the rear -the rear of the wheel is especially bad for dirt or brake dust build up as they can’t be cleaned as easily and it has closer contact with the brakes -same process, apply the coating to the suede applicator, and then work it into the surface -if you noticed earlier on in the video, the hub face did have some excessive rust staining -I removed a majority of this with polishing compound -finally moving onto the center caps, if you have them -now allow the coating to harden for at least an hour -moving onto the Reload spray -the surface must be cool, then spray it onto the surface and work it into the surface using a microfiber cloth. Apply it to both sides of the wheel -this is a silica based sealant which promote gloss, has hydrophobic qualities and resists scratching as well I would highly recommend wearing a mask as there is serious health risks associated with silica -this doesn’t necessarily need to be applied, but it will add protection if used -for darker colors it is recommended to be mixed up to 1:1 with distilled water -finish up with a clean microfiber cloth for a final polish -do not let the nano coating get wet for 24hrs -beyond painted wheels, this can also be used on polished aluminum -finally you’ll be left with something such as this
  2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7S0E4xYdqU Video tutorial on how to unplug a sunroof drain. Depending on where you live, sunroof drains may become plugged sooner than later. If you live in a treed area, it can happen more often as there is larger particles floating around in the air which would eventually plug the drains. These drains are normally feed through the roof pillars and exit somewhere underneath the vehicle. When a sunroof drain does become plugged, the common signs are either a wet headliner, water dripping from the headliner, wet roof pillar, a damp carpet or water pooling in the foot wells. Tools/Supplies Needed: -soft wire or trimmer cord -air compressor or can of air -bottle or cup of water -vacuum clean -rubber hose Procedure: -first you will need to open the sunroof as this is the easiest way to access the drains -I’ve already determined which drain is leaking and normally that can be done by having an idea where the water is leaking or gathering -we are looking for a hole which is at the base of the sunroof trim or frame -when cleaning the drain, it’s also a great idea to ensure there is no debris around the sunroof area which could worsen the clog or cause another cl -first we can use an air compressor to blow out any debris -here is have a small compressor with a regulator which can control the air pressure, so using the regulator, I like to keep the pressure at around 30psi -next using a hose attached to the blow gun, push the hose in the drain and then allow the air to push out the clog -if the air compressor does not work or you do not have access to one, use a wire -for this I have a roll of wire, this is stranded copper wire with an insulation -slowly insert the wire -trimmer cord is also great for this if you have a roll laying around -the length of wire or cord depends on the run of the drain, ensure it’s at least the height of the vehicle -feed the wire or cord in until it comes out the other side if you have a viewable drain exit -after that, remove the wire or cord -now test using a bottle of water, gradually drain the water around the sunroof drain, do not excessively dump as the drain is only able to remove a certain amount of water -as you can see the water is draining properly -if the problem persists, there may have been a drain you missed, a faulty seal, or faulty drain
  3. Thank you That might be a bit of work to get around those bolt locations and any complex edges. Although worth it once done.
  4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCIZWyfXlLo Video tutorial on how to polish aluminum with a mirror finish. As an example I am using a piece of aluminum square stock, but I have used this method many times before on valve covers, other aluminum engine components, motorcycle parts, throttle bodies, carburetors, and wheels. I have recently refinished the lips of the wheels for my car. If you do plan on refinishing a set of wheels, this is a very work intensive job so be sure you are ready for something like that. And depending on how much time you are willing to spending will spending on the final finish. Tools/Supplies Needed: -400 grit wet/dry sandpaper -600 grit wet/dry sandpaper -1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper -1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper -2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper -metal polish -soft clean cloth -soap -water -bucket -backer pad (rubber or foam) -rubber gloves Procedure: -you will need to remove any coating if any on whatever you are finishing -for my wheels, they did have a clear coat applies which needed to be stripped -next ensure the item is clean, free of any dirt, grease, or debris which can jeopardize the polishing process -depending on the aluminum’s finish will depend on what sandpaper is needed to start out with -any porous casting will need is a very coarse grit to cut down the high spots such as 160 grit -considering we are working with aluminum, there are health risks associated with the dust, so to reduce the dust, use wet sanding -considering this aluminum is in good shape, I’ll use 400 grit in case the surface is mildly uneven. -pre-soak the sandpaper, wet the piece down, and then continue to sand -if it’s a flat piece, use a rubber backer -for contoured areas, a foam pad can be used as a backer instead which is what I used for polishing my wheels -this allows for even pressure across the surface, cutting down any high spots -rinse the area continuously, along with the sandpaper -closely inspect the piece to ensure the material is smooth and any surface imperfects or the machined surface has been remove -any deep marks most likely won’t be removed, but you can lessen the damaged area -damaged areas can be filled in my welding, but if you don’t have the equipment someone will need to weld it for you -once satisfied, move up to 600 grit sandpaper -considering almost all of the imperfections should have been smoothened out, we should only be focusing on the sanding marks and maybe any extremely light damage -after you’re done with 600, you can then move up to 1000 grit -then 1500 -and finally 2000 -rinse the area thoroughly with water and ensure it is dry -using a clean cloth and your choice of metal polish, now we can work on the final shine -if you are working with a larger area you can use a machine polisher, drill with a buffing pad, rotary tool, etc -apply the polish to a cloth and work it into the surface -depending on the polish, you may find it’ll turn black which is perfectly normal -polish work times will vary -once it becomes harder to work with, wipe away and apply more polish if need -once you’re happy with the shine, apply a final coat of polish and finish up with a clean soft cloth -the polished aluminum will last for a fairly long time, but this is still an exposed surface so it can suffer from water etching, staining, or any other exterior elements if it’s exposed to the weather -in some applications, you can apply a sealer or coating which will help protect it -for my wheels I have applied a nano coating which I plan to have more information on in a future video
  5. Video tutorial on how to rebuild a starter yourself at home. This is a great way to save money considering it’s only about $10 for replacement parts and a rebuilt replacement can around $150 depending on the vehicle. The repair maybe slightly more if you have to replace a solenoid. Tools/Supplies Needed: -new brushes, bushings or bearings, and solenoid -multimeter -600 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper -ratchet and socket set -paint -grease -electrical contact cleaner -wire brush -scraper -clean rags -degreaser -pliers -adjustable wrench -tape -paint marker Procedure: -remove starter from vehicle -tape up any exposed holes on the starter -clean the outside using a scraper and wire brush -use a paint marker to mark any case seams -remove the main power cable coming off the solenoid -remove the outer bolts on the starter case -these are extremely long and small, so take your time as you can risk breaking them depending on the condition of your starter -the starter should pop right apart -do not force the starter apart as there are plastic components which can break -remove the solenoid -the plunger will fit into a plastic fork so it does need to be shifted to one side so it can be removed from the unit -remove rubber cap holding the engagement lever into place, then remove the final drive assembly -the gear reduction just slides apart and inside you will find a series of gears -remove the two bolts on the backside and pull off the cap -remove the small rubber cap on the side that both holds and insulates the cable which just slides out -pull back on the shaft to help assist the armature and brushes out -pop the metal clips back and remove the cap on the brush carrier -fully remove the metal clips and pull the brushes out, be extremely careful not to lose the springs in the process -using a plastic safe degreasing, clean up any old lubricant on any parts with a clean rag -disassemble the final drive, there is a c clip at the end of the shaft that holds the pinion gear in place -remove the pinion gear and clutch assembly, inspect for any damage and replace if necessary -remove another c clip, this time using needle nose plies to separate the final drive shaft -clean up everything again with a degreaser -there will be a bushing inside the case, so inspect that for any damage and replace if necessary -for reassembly, apply a film of grease to any moving parts -use a high quality grease throughout the starter motor, something which will maintaining good lubricating qualities in cold climate and not melt under high heat -the grease will provide lubrication and hold the ball into place, make sure you do not lose it -there will be a bushing in the end cap housing, therefore make sure it is in good condition with not play, replace if necessary -I used a hacksaw blade to cut a slit in the bushing, do not cut all the way through as we do not want to mark the casing -using a chisel, crush the bushing and then you’ll be able to remove it -clean up any old dirt or lubricant -gently insert the new bushing with a hammer, once it becomes a little lower, use the old bushing to help assist it into place and ensure it sits into the same location as before -clean up the armature using electrical contact clean and a tooth brush -commutator resurface using 600 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper and a drill -clean up the commutator using electrical contact cleaner and ensure the spaces between the commutator bars are clean -the mica in these spaces should also be about 1mm lower -using a multimeter, test the armature -wash the inside of the start case with contact cleaner to remove any contaminants -checked the solenoid with a multimeter -for reassembly, install the final drive back into the case -apply a light amount of oil to the oilite bushings if desired -install rubber cap, solenoid and then motor case -install the new bushes in the carrier and seat using 600 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper so they match the contour of the commutator -wash everything with electrical contact cleaner -assembly the starter
  6. Video tutorial on how to easily strip the paint or clear coat off a set of wheels. Obviously there are various methods that can be used but not everyone owns or has access to the equipment needed. This is an at home method which can be done in the comforts of your own driveway. If you are refinishing your wheels and they currently have peeling issues in the currently coating or extreme corrosion then is it import to remove the existing coating in order to have a good base to work with and ensure a long life for the new finish. If you are polishing aluminum wheels, this method can also be used as well. These particular wheels I am working with are from a Jeep Wrangler, Canyon style with both a machine aluminum surface with clear coat and paint. Tools/Supplies Needed: -putty knife or plastic scrapper -brass wire brush -wheels -rubber gloves -paint stripper -wheel cleaner -brush -safety glasses -respirator -water hose Procedure: -first start by washing the wheels with a wheel based cleaner to remove any brake dust, road debris, etc. -give them a good scrub down using a brush. -allow them to dry as we will be using a paint stripper -if there is any water residue, this will neutralize the paint stripper -mix the paint stripper accordingly -work in a well ventilated area, wear rubber gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator -spray on the paint stripper -apply a thin or thick coat, which ever is needed -it takes about 10 minutes for the paint to peal up, you will notice the coating bubble/lift during this period -once done, you can use a metal putty knife to remove the coating, but I picked up a plastic scraper just to reduce the risk of scratching the aluminum finish -for those harder to reach areas, I also have a brass wire brush which won’t damage the aluminum either -do not use a metal wire brush as they are coarser and you do have to worry about metal getting impregnated in the aluminum surface which will cause the particles to rust -a second coat may need to be applied if you are working with a stronger paint -dispose of the old paint properly -then wash the wheel down to neutralize the stripper
  7. Video tutorial on how to remove and lubricate the sliding pins on a disc brake assembly. Sliding pins, also known as guide pins allow your caliper to float, so when your brake pedal is applied, the braking surface on both sides of the rotor can be used. When the piston is pushed out, this basically creates a pinching against the rotor using the brake pads. Every time maintenance is done on the disc brake assembly, these pins should be cleaned and lubricated otherwise you can risk having them stick or seize. Sticking or seized pins can cause the brakes to stick on, prevent the brakes from functioning fully, and uneven wear on the pads. Tools/Supplies Needed: -ratchet with socket set -wire brush -file -abrasive pad -sandpaper -small round object -degreaser -rag -new slide pins -new rubber boots -torch -slide hammer -hammer -adjustable wrench -brake pin lubricant (used in the video is Permatex Synthetic Brake Lubricant #09125) Procedure: -the carrier can be removed or left in place when cleaning the pins and adding lubricant -simply pull the pin out and give it a slight rotate which will help assist the rubber boot off -remove the boot completely, then wipe away the old grease -use a degreaser to clean off any residue if needed -using a file, clean up around the boot’s sealing surface if there is a light build up of rust -use an abrasive pad if needed to clean any dirt build up or rust on the pins -if your pins are too far gone, then I would recommend purchasing new replacements from either the dealer, local auto parts store, or online -using a rag and something which is able fit in the hole of the carrier, clean the old lubricant or any dirt inside -once you are done, now apply a brake specific lubricant to the pins -reinstall the rubber boots if they are in good condition, then push the pins back into place -for stuck or seized, they can be removed either by the use of an adjustable wrench to rotate them, using a slide hammer, or applying heat with a propane or acetylene torch set
  8. Video on a review and demonstration using a leather repair kit from Refinish Coatings. Refinish Coatings is a company which makes restoration kits for both leather and vinyl applications. These kits can be applied to a variety of products such as automotive applications, furniture, marine, etc. They are available in a variety of colors and pigments which will match OEM or factory specifications, along with providing a high quality durable finish. For this product here I will be working with a damaged piece of leather which will have a couple scratches repaired, along with applying a dye. Overall I am very impressed with this kit and would recommend it for anyone wanting to repair or customize items themselves. Tools/Supplies Needed: -Refinish Coatings leather repair kit -bucket of water -2 lint free cloths -soft brush -hair dryer or heat gun -rubber gloves -2 disposable containers Procedure: -ensure the surface you are working with is thoroughly cleaned, use an all purpose cleaner, they recommend using Simple Green or a dish soap along with water -scrub the seat down using a sponge, cloth, or soft brush, then wipe the again clean free of any soap -finish up with clean water to ensure all soap reside is removed and allow it to dry -for drying, we can use a hair dryer or heat gun, if you are using a heat gun, be sure it’s on a low heat setting as we do not want to damage the material -I would recommend wearing rubber gloves to the products do not get on your skin, along with oil from your skin contaminating the surface -use a clean lint free cloth and the Surface Prep product, apply it to the cloth and work it into the surface by applying harder pressure -the surface will feel tacky once cleaned -allow it to dry for 24 hours or to speed up time use the help of a hair dryer or heat gun -if you have any damaged areas, use 600 grit sandpaper to remove any loose fibres and smoothen the area -once finished, clean off any sanding debris, and give the area another wipe down with the surface prep product -use a small disposable container, pour a sufficient about of base coat into a cup -add cross linker to the base coat, for every two ounces of base coat, add one cc or ml of cross linker -mix thoroughly using one of the stir sticks -apply the base coat mix using the supplied sponge, use only light pressure with fast movements and do not leave streaking -allow it to dry but only by air drying, do not use a hair dryer or heat gun -the top coat must be applied within four hours -to repair the damaged areas, use the stir stick to ensure the leather crack filler is mixed and apply it to the damaged areas -once dry, use the 600 sandpaper to smoothen the filled areas -I did apply some base coat over the filler just to promote adhesion for the top coat as well -shake the Top Coat in the container to ensure it’s mixed and pour a sufficient amount into a disposable container -using the pipette add the cross linker, for every two ounces of top coat, add two cc or ml of cross linker, and mix thoroughly using the stir stick -the top coat mix can be applied with an airbrush/small paint gun or using a foam applicator -using a sponge, you will need to work the top coat into the surface so it's able to color the cracks and textured areas -do not apply an excessive amount of product, using fast movements I find work best, and do not leave any streaking -allow about five minutes in between coats, a hair dryer or heat gun can be used to speed up dry time -apply the next coat when needed, also different directions help blend the repair -depending on the repair will depend on how many coats are required -it normally takes about 3-4hrs to cure, this will depend on the thickness of coats, along with your climate -do not allow the repaired area to get wet for 48 hours
  9. Video Tutorial on how to polish your headlights with toothpaste. This method does actually work, but it can be very work intensive compared to my other method of wet sanding. This works similar as to applying a polishing compound because toothpaste does contain an amount of grit/abrasive material. If you do have any stone chipping or heavier scratches in the headlight, toothpaste will not remove that as this method takes the contour of the light surface. Wet sanding on the other hand does remove more material and skins over the surface taking down any high spots. Your choice of wax can also be applied in the end to protect the lights over a longer period of time and give them a deep shine. Toothpastes that contain more of a grit/abrasive feel tend to work better than the types that don't. The outcome of the final product will depend on how much time you are willing to spend, what type of toothpaste you are using, and what the severity of the hazing on your headlights is. This will also work on other lights around the vehicle such as fog lights, parking lights, and tail lights. This process will last for almost a year until they need to be revisited again (when applying a protective layer of wax). Tools/Supplies Needed: -toothpaste -spray bottle with water -lint free cloth -wax and lint free cloth (optional) Procedure: -be sure the wash your vehicle or at least the front of your vehicle to ensure there will not be any debris contaminating during the polishing process -using your choice of toothpaste, apply it to a lint free cloth -spray the headlight with a mist of water if it dry, this is for lubrication and increase a finer polish -rub the toothpaste using the lint free cloth into the light, ensuring you get the whole surface of the lens -use vertical and horizontal directions, as well as circular patterns -apply more toothpaste and water when needed -when satisfied, rinse the front of your vehicle off with water -make sure the lights and area around is dry, then apply wax to increase the shine and protect the lights over a longer period of time (optional)