Wobbly Dave

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About Wobbly Dave

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  • Model of Volvo
    C70 (Hardtop)
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  • Interests
    Drag racing, track days and modifying my C70
  1. What ratios of water meth are you lot running?
  2. I put the controller (with the test button) into the glovebox - so I can access the button to prime the system, but keep it out of harms way. I may yet install a 90 degree bracket to secure it to. Going to wrap the wires in a plastic sheath.
  3. WMI is all plumbed and wired in. Circuit looks good though I am going to test pump some H2O before getting the methanol. I wired mine of the spare loom above the accelerator pedal as Tim recommended. Just a thought though. Do any of you bother with a separate arming switch? Currently the arming switch is the ignition key (switched 12V supply). I can't really think of a use case where I wouldn't want the WMI to be available when the engine was running.
  4. Lost 2 hours when the loom on the back of the intake temp sensor snapped off in the back of the plug during the pipe re-install - GRRR! Speaking of which - does anyone have a spare section of MAF sensor loom - my plug is severely knackered and one of the wires just gave out...
  5. Stainless steel is not easy to work with and made a right mess of my new Ti covered step cutter. I've had to buy a special jobber drill bit to get the 11/32 hole cut for the 1/8 NSP tap. In the end it did yield but the attrition rate of drill bits was higher than expected, as has the time to complete it. There was little left of the original t-piece but what wall/weld left did provide enough purchase to allow the nozzle to sit true relative to the midline and vertical, even if the nozzle pertrudes a bit further in the pipe than directed in the instructions. In hindsight I would have given the DO88 pipework a miss and just had my own top pipe fabbed up. Tapping my home made plastic pipe would have been childsplay. I have finished the tank breather - photos will follow and then the last job is to complete the wiring, plug in the controller and test the system. At least with all my intercooler pipework finished I can start the engine again.
  6. I will fit 18s as well but I have no budget currently for alloys. All the money will be going on funing the tucker.
  7. I could technically go to just a 5mm spacer but that would only leave 1.5 mm - which is a smidge to tight for my liking.
  8. I choose yellow caliper paint which I regret now because it is chippy as fuck even after baking it with lacquer. 2 pac would have been a better choice. The clearance with the 20mm H&R is 16mm - so I have duly ordered 10mm to reduce the unnecessary clearance.
  9. There was no way that the WP's were going to fit behind either the canistos or the comets - both which have near identical spoke shapes. I bought some 20mm H&R spacers and longer wheel bolts. I had a bit of a mare with the carriers. The lumps of pig iron supplied had different profiles. The trial fit on the OS went on nice and easy - no dramas. The goodridge lines were a smidge too short on full lock so I replaced them with the HEL lines that came with the WPs. I swapped of the rubber brake line grommets to make sure they didn't rub. The NS carrier was a nightmare and was catching with the same amount of spacing and was duly administered a good lashing with the angle grinder, so the inside of the bell didn't catch.
  10. In that case I will get some more 1/4 inch tube and follow the feed line and make another hole, so it can vent/breath behind the rear wheel arch liner.
  11. A year has passed and I am in the process of fitting the AEM kit. I have run the pipework up to the engine bay. I ran it out through the OS rear corner and it follows the fuel lines, under the O/S side of the steering rack and around the front roughly following the fuel line return, up between the bottom coolant pipe. The new DO88.se intercooler pipe comes with a spur ready welded on but when I looked it doesn't tapped for the 1/8 NSP fitting for the nozzle. I may cut this short and tap it myself or given the fact that the 1/4 inch WMI feed pipe is coming from underneath - ignore it and just drill and tap my own hole so that I am not cutting back at such a short angle or buy a right angle quarter inch fitting. I haven't figured that out yet. I am worried about the wall thickness with a new hole and whether or not the stem is big enough to take the tap. On measuring it was quite close. I may just cut and grind a flat spot where it joins the tube - as it needs to be nice and air-tight. Some thoughts on prior installs would be good - but here is where I am at the moment with the Timmy tank and AEM pump -and inline filter - it will disappear behind the wall carpet once done. The outflow for the tank is at almost dead to rear - to allow the feed tube to pass up and not be caught by the spare tyre - though I later realised this might not be 100% to being dead rear - I think it is good enough. It is now rivnutted in place. I assume Tim that the extra hole on the tank is for the level sensor - but I am waiting on your confirmation on what to use as the instructions above are unclear to me. I plan to power the pump from the spare looms (which I assume are for a tow bar??) - but I need to investigate the voltages and switching associated with them or revert to sunroof/spare cabin looms upfront.
  12. The tyres arrived this morning - thanks for that. Now I can spend a few hours hunting for 18 inch alloys.
  13. No we were on a family expedition visiting friends
  14. I find myself in Bristol tomorrow so if you can ping me the address I will see if we can pop round.
  15. yeah - can't pinch the intake of this one.