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About DoctorD5

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  • Model of Volvo
    S60 (Saloon P2 99>)
  • Location (County)
    West Midlands
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  1. Apologies for my poor forum etiquette. I thought that by removing the Ad it would free up space for members who actually have a vehicle for sale without the need to sift through vehicles that are no longer available.
  3. Got to thin the fleet out again so the Volvo is up for sale. Here are the key points. 165k miles 9 months MOT BSR tuned. Goes very well. Box fine, no crunches etc, clutch doesn't slip, engine purrs and is mechanically sound. It won't let you down. Lots and lots of history, both Keys present , cambbelt, water pump etc all been done. Interior is in very good condition. No rips etc and everything works. Has fancy wheels, roof bars, spoiler and tow bar (never been used) In my ownership it has had Aux belt, tensioner and pulleys done along with new Intercooler and a full service. No rust on the car anywhere. Bad Points There is a small dent on the rear door (body shop quoted £40 to have pulled). There is an occasional rumble/knocking when driving along. It doesn't affect handling etc but you can definitely hear something. I asked my tester to investigate at the time of MOT and he was convinced it was the rear ARB drop links and passenger side ball joint (both of which were changed) but the noise remained after. I'm at a loss to what it could be and honestly haven't a clue. It could be as simple as an exhaust rubber that's gone and is knocking. The drivers side wing mirror casing is missing due to a crazy pensioner deciding he'd had enough of driving on his side of the road. The glass is still intact but the cowling is missing. The fuel gauge only reads up to half way. It is accurate below this but it won't read over it. It's been a great work horse and is very reliable and economic but can also be great fun and achieve 140MPH if you desire. Asking price is £600 and the car is based in Walsall in the West Midlands. Any questions please feel free to DM me.
  4. I have a 2002 S60 D5 that I have bought replacement rear ARB bushes for. I plan on cutting/burning the bonded bushes off and replacing with the after market ones. The Bar size is 21mm for reference. I'll let you know how I go with them
  5. Many thanks for that. Indeed there is a small triangle on the unit. I searched and searched for one on the tank and floor to no avail but there is a cut out of what I can only describe as a raised lip in the floor of about 2 inches between say 2 and 3 o'clock so I lined it up between those and all is well again. For now.....
  6. I know on other vehicles I've owned there are usually a couple of notches that you line up but can't see any on this.
  7. Had the fuel pump sender unit (the one under the rear passenger seat) out and I'm getting some funny readings now I've put it back in. I'm sure I remember the float arm being at the 6 o'clock position when I took it out but it seems this may not be the case. Does any one know the correct orientation of the float? Thanks in advance.
  8. Thanks for those tips. If the plastic pipe works that's all that matters. I've made these tools before for other models so only tool a few minutes. The sender locking ring was very tight. Hoping to replace the fuel pump as I've got a few spares from other motors I've had so will have a look the weekend. Will have a look at relays today.
  9. Thanks men. I've actually made a locking ring extractor this morning, had the back seat out and took the sender side out. Everything was attached and seemed to be in order so I've put it back in (but the bloody float arm must have come away as fuel level reads empty) and nipped it back up. Locking ring took below. I'll take the seat backs out tonight and actually remove the pump and bucket and see it there is anything untoward there. Will check fuel pump relay while I'm on. Are the relays under the drivers dash under the black panel at knee night?
  10. Ah, after a little more research the cross Pipe goes from the bottom of the bucket and clips into a sender on the other side. Is there anywhere in particular the cross hose becomes detatched?
  11. Thanks for the reply. Can this cross pipe be accessed via the hatch under the seat?
  12. As title, it had over a quarter of a tank left in and went into limp mode at 70 MPH then just gradually died. Pretty sure it's pump related as when I had been towed off the motorway after numerous starting attempts I thought I'd try and give it some brake cleaner down the intake (I know I know, not good) and sure enough it fired up and behaved. I've started it a few times since and it starts on the button and is out of limp mode too. Question is has my motor got an in tank pump and is this the possible culprit? Secondly if it is where is it and can it be accessed via a service hatch I.E under the back seats etc. Any help would be greatly received. Thanks.
  13. Very good of you Tim. Can you send me your contact details or address please?
  14. Hi Tim, could you possibly drop me a message outlining the typical costs of running the codes etc and I'll come over when it's convenient four you.
  15. Had a search but couldn't find any solid answers so here goes chaps. My d5 recently started displaying the anti skid light on the dash display if I gave it a tiny bit more beans than I should have from cold. When the light came on it almost seemed to go into limp home mode for a couple of seconds then normal service was resumed. Then after about 30 seconds of driving everything went back to normal and it pulled like a train again. Then this weekend the same happened again but the anti skid light stayed on from cold and didn't put me into limp mode it just seemed to be of standard performance as if the map had been taken off. I pulled over and turned the ignition off and back on again. The light has gone out but it's definitely still holding back. Any ideas what's going on guys? P.s I've tried reflashing the map back on but it's still the same. Any help would be great fully received.