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About laggys40

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  • Model of Volvo
    S40 (Saloon)
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    Non UK Member
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  1. Have you checked out level ten transmissions?
  2. When I get my manual m56 tranny in my hands I'm going to push a sliiiightly modified aw50-55sn to its limits. I'm going to run a very large transmission cooler with a e-fan on a toggle switch. Let's see how long it last on the high boost tune at 300whp.
  3. I ran into a problem on the first road test. I'm blowing oil out the seals on the turbine side. The oil burning is at idle and gets worse with more throttle. I'm pretty sure it's my oil return line causing the issue. The fitting I purchased from ebay/china isnt a true -10an in regards to the inside diameter. Ordering a 5/8 fitting on the turbo and hoping that eliminates the oil blowing past the seals.
  4. Hi mark. Have you checked the entire lower port going into the engine block down into the oil pan? Those are notorious for getting clogged overtime.
  5. The motor is a 2000 s40 us edition. The two pior 2000 s40s I used to own had vvt on the exhaust and one map sensor on the intake manifold. My 2003 has two, one on the cold side of the intercooler and one on the intake manifold. I will give the cam timing another shot. I'm going to use the data log feature as well on my scanner (first time using it) and see how that works. I'll try uploading the datalog info tomorrow night. I'm not giving up on the car, not after 5 months of work on it and still needs M56 swap next year. 😀
  6. Yes, the engine has vvt on the exhaust and I'm running two oem map sensors.
  7. Thanks for the quick response Tim. I did a reset with the ecu twice, I left the battery unplugged overnight a couple times between checking codes to clear the ecu. My next attempt is using the scan tool to reset the codes as well but dought that will work. -I think the cam timing should be spot on, I lined up the crankshaft single tooth mark on the gear and got it lined up the the mark on the block. I cross referenced by watching some DIY videos and manuals. I did a full phase one motor swap to a phase two car. So a phase one head(motor in my case) won't work with phase two software? I called numerous stealerships and they said the swap would work no problem. -I will swap the coils and see if that does anything like you said. -I called a guy I got a referral from and he believes it's a timing issue. Price quote of $400 USD to look over my work and re-time my cams and look at ecu codes with a scanner that does the same thing as vida he said. The craftsman 20890 scanner I have works great but doesn't clear all the codes and has generic codes sometimes making it difficult to narrow things down. Its a legit volvo specialist shop and think I may take the $400 hit at this point, volvo wants double the price.
  8. I plugged in my scan tool today and was surprised how many codes I got. I have a total of 18 codes with some of them repeated more than once. Any tips or suggestions before I start wrenching on it this weekend? I want to take the right approach to this and some help would be very much appreciated. I'm going to start with checking my wires for any mix up but everything was pretty much fool proof. I had everything marked and numbered and the only thing I had to wire up was the o2 sensors. All the other connections had harnesses so it just clicked together. p0303- #3 misfire p0015- exhaust cam shaft over retarded p0351- ignition coil a primary secondary circuit p0234- turbo charger overboost condition p0236- turbo charger boost sensor A circuit p0108- manifold absolute pressure bar sensor high input p0102- mass or volume air flow low input p0505- idle air control system p0014- exhaust camshaft position timing over retarded bank 1 p0303- cylinder 3 misfire detected p0351- ignition coil a primary secondary circuit p0234- turbo overboost condition p0236- turbo overboost sensor A circuit p0108- manifold absolute pressure high sensor high input p0102- mass or volume air fow circuit low input p0505- idle air control system p0014- exhaust camshaft position over advanced
  9. So I did a little detail on the engine bay yesterday. I still have to plumb up the diverter valve and upgrade the cold side pipe of the intercooler to a 3" aluminum bend. Official startup video coming next week, waiting for a part to be imported from sweden right now and wont be in until next wed/thurs.
  10. Intercooler plumbing is almost done. I took a chance and ordered a stock hy35 boost elbow and it worked out great. The height is perfect and all I needed was a 90 degree elbow with a 3" to 2" coupler so that it bolts right up to the stock intercooler pipe.
  11. Small update. I did a full o-ring replacement on the fuel injectors and not a leak so far. Also did the timing belt AGAIN and noticed why the old one tore on the side. During inspection I found a socket adapter that had fell down into the timingbelt crankshaft area. This must have bee the culprit scene in the first photo.
  12. You start your build yet for 500hp?
  13. Started up the car for the first time today and she ran!! Stupid me forgot to tighten the oil feed line on the engine block and made a huge mess,lol. Other than that I have two leaky fuel injectors and still need to extend the o2 sensors wires and replace the timing belt again. There is a small tear and must have gotten hit during install.
  14. Car is 95% complete. Really wanting to do a wire tuck when time permits and a rear battery kit to open up the engine bay.
  15. Exhaust is complete. Went at a different approach, decided to paint it black to protect it from the salt during the winter. I also adapted a 3" stainless pipe to the stock muffler for now. Down the road I'll be gutting it out and straight piping inside the stock muffler it to give it the stock(sleeper look) and approved state inspection look to it.