Peter68

Full Members
  • Content count

    475
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Peter68

  • Rank

Previous Fields

  • Model of Volvo
    S60 (Saloon P2 99>)
  • Location (County)
    Essex

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  1. For all of you racers then this could be the way to go:-
  2. Does it MAT'er
  3. This is a brilliant site for looking up part numbers and getting exploded diagrams, prices (USA) and description:- http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Nipple/1125076/30670269.html
  4. Found an interesting article on Scooby.net which I am sure they will not mind being shared here :- This is what Prodrive guru Damian Harty had to say: Strutbrace Q: There is an awful lot of mythology around this stuff that goes back to body-on-chassis beam-axled racers in the 20s - I'm not kidding. There are two effects that are important. Basically, the body structure is like a "fifth spring" between the front and rear suspension. If that spring is not stiff enough then the body relaxes out any redictribution of roll moment that the anti-roll bars were trying to make and so the car is unresponsive to handling balance tuning with springs and bars. However, once the body is "stiff enough" then making it stiffer offers no benefits. A good rule of thumb is that the torsional stiffness of the body (between suspension mount points) needs to be about ten times the roll stiffness of the stiffest suspension end (usually the front). If you chase the numbers through you end up with about 5-7 kNn/degree as the requirement for a body structure. Most modern monocoques comfortably exceed that and the Subaru with its bonded screens both ends does too. Somewhere I have a figure but can't recall it right now. Anything over 10 is good, 15-17 is current "state-of-the-art". So in that case, a strut brace does very little. The second effect is a bit more complicated. The body moves on the suspension but the wheel also moves on the tyre - the tyre is in many ways a "secondary" suspension system. That movement is partially controlled by the tyre and partially by the suspension damper and happens 10 to 15 times a second. The body is a flexible thing that has its own resonances and because of the shape of most cars at the front - they need a hole to put the engine in - it can get quite flexible in just about this frequency region. If the body goes flexible - goes into resonance - then the damper just moves with the body and can't contribute to the control of the tyre and in fact can do something bad called "mass loading" where the tyre is carrying not only itself but also part of the body _while it resonates_ (it's important to separate the static 'weight carrying' from dynamic things in your mind). In those cases, the strut brace can help because if it is a good design then it stiffens the front end usefully. What all of the above means is that the effectiveness of a strut brace is strongly connected to the stiffness of your suspension. So for a Scoob that is fairly standard, the strut brace probably doesn't do a great deal, but as they get modified and stiffened the brace will contribute more to a well controlled feel over less-than-perfect surfaces. The final point about strut braces relates to the emporor's new clothes - having bought a flash one, not many people will admit they can't really tell the difference. Sorry for such a long answer but it isn't straightforward, especially when I'm denied my usual engineering shorthand of "Hz" and "modal damping" and so on..
  5. Hi I don't have pictures of mine but I was inspired by this thread. Read through all of the pages as it not only tells you how to do it but has photos as well:- http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?195279-Info-Thread-for-Adding-2014-S80-Tail-Lights
  6. Hi I have fitted the very latest LED Volvo rear light units to my 2007 S80. If the light failure warning applies to the light you are thinking of eg. rear lights etc then the answer is yes you can fit LED's. However I had to fit appropriate resistors into the wiring . These brought the lower consumption LED up to the same consumption as the original bulbs. These resistors can be bought on eBay such as the link attached (just an example of the TYPE I used not necessarily of the correct value) :- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361361610685?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The resistors can get very warm or hot as they are consuming the wattage that the bulb would normally consume. They need to be away from other wires and anchored somewhere safe out of the way. Mine has been running fine now for 6 months with no warning lights or problems. If the LED's are going into eg. the number plate illumination unit then these bulbs are not on the ' Bulb out ' warning so no problem or need for resistors.
  7. From April 24th this year, speeding fines are set to dramatically rise in an attempt to deter motorists from driving dangerously. Following on from tougher punishments on drivers who use mobile phones while driving, magistrates will now punish drivers according to harsher guidelines if they’re caught above the limit. Here’s all you need to know about the change in speeding fine sentences and how it will affect you if you’re caught. What’s changed? As part of the changes, magistrates are now being instructed to be much tougher on those who commit the most serious speeding offences. The new fine structure is ranked into three alphabetically categorised bands, with the least severe being Band A, while the most severe is Band C. Band C fines are reserved for speeders who commit serious offences, and Band C fines carry an absolute minimum fine of 150 per cent of the offender’s weekly income. What exactly is a ‘serious’ offence? It depends on the speed limit, but it’s understood to be an offence where the driver is driving excessively faster than the posted speed limit. In a 30mph zone, that means travelling 51mph or above, while in a 70mph you’d need to be travelling at least 101mph for a Band C fine. For a full breakdown of the speed limits and the different fine bands, refer to the information from the Sentencing Council for England and Wales in the image below: How much do I have to pay if I’m caught? Given that the fines are calculated according to how much the offender earns, it varies. Band A fines start from 50 per cent of an offender’s weekly income, while Band B fines start from 100 per cent. The most severe Band C fines have a minimum penalty of 150 per cent of the driver’s weekly income. So, as an example, if you earn £25,000 a year then the absolute minimum that a Band C fine will cost you is £720. This will increase or decrease depending on what your salary is, but magistrates are instructed to cap fines at a maximum of £1,000 or £2,500 if the driver happens to be caught excessively speeding on the motorway. As a result, anyone earning more than approximately £47,000 probably won’t have to pay more than the maximum, leading some to claim that the sentencing changes will disproportionately punish drivers on lower incomes. Is there any wiggle room in how much I’m fined? Yes there is, but it works both ways. A magistrate can decrease your fine due to mitigating factors, but on the other hand they can choose to increase it based on other factors. For example, a magistrate could choose to charge a driver more than the mandatory amount if they display a history of previous driving convictions, or if they’ve been caught speeding while on bail. On the other hand, mitigating circumstances like a clean criminal record or proof that the driver was in a genuine emergency will be taken into account, and the magistrates could choose to be much more lenient. Magistrates could also in certain circumstances choose to reduce the fine if the defendant is seen to be cooperating with the authorities or pleading guilty to the offence. Are fines the only punishments speeders can get? Depending on the severity of the offence, a magistrate could also choose to discipline drivers in other ways as well as fining them. Speeding drivers could be disqualified from driving either temporarily or permanently, while they can also choose to add points to your driving licence. However, for less severe offences drivers with clean licences can still opt to attend a speed awareness course in order to avoid penalty points.
  8. I wrongly posted this in 'Discussion' the other day, its really better here;- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/car-aerodynamics-guide/ The article can give links to other areas but I have sorted and attached these here. Much of this may be basic for us but there is no such thing as bad knowledge - may be something we don't know. Car Tuning Guides:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tag/car-tuning-guides/ German Diesel Tuning Guide:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning/fast-car-german-diesel-tuning-guide/ Fast Car guide to Turbo Components:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/fast-car-guide-to-turbo-components/ Beginners Guide to Tuning Turbo Engines:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning/fast-car-beginners-guide-to-tuning-turbo-engines/ Top 5 Oil System Modifications :- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning/best-5-oil-system-modifications/3/ Car Induction Guide:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/fast-car-induction-kit-guide/ Stage 2 Induction Guide:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning/fast-car-stage-2-induction-upgrade-guide/ Fast Car Static Suspension Guide:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/fast-car-static-suspension-guide/ Fast Car Tyre Guide:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/fast-car-tyre-guide/ Fast Car Exhaust Guide:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/fast-car-exhaust-guide/ Fast Car Brake Guide:- http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/fast-car-brake-guide/
  9. Sorry forgot to mention :- Follow the links on the main article as there are additional articles on Turbos, Wastegates, Suspension, Brakes etc etc. Some of it is basic and known to many of us but good for new members etc with possibly less experience.
  10. YES. I do agree. We get snippets re the recent excellent one on race engines, this one on aerodynamics , water / meth. inj.etc.. These have a relevance across all models and variations but can easily be missed if placed in one specific car model section. Perhaps one of the ' Mods. ' to consider.
  11. Came across this article which may be of interest. We seem to be keen on mechanical modifications but not paying too much heed to the Aerodynamics. http://www.fastcar.co.uk/tuning-tech-guides/car-aerodynamics-guide/
  12. Rather than worrying about seats :- Alternatively leave your wallet with a trusted friend . That should lighten the car substantially.
  13. Working out from the lecture notes Series 1. If the driver can loose 3.9 Stone (55 lbs) of weight then that is an effective power increase of 5 BHP in the car. Does the Forum have a recommended diet for members :- ie. reduce some foods ( pie and chips) and with a change of diet ( lettuce and fish salad) then there is a potential improvement in MPG and a power gain.
  14. Well done Greg I found the article to be very informative. The link did not lead me on to the 2nd lecture about Engine Tuning etc. Following on from your excellent links I have attached the 'follow up' second lecture :- https://www.928motorsports.com/installpdf/Challenges When Racing a Street Vehicle - Session II.pdf
  15. The lengths some people go to:- http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7109867-Introducing-the-all-new-Porsche-914-Stealth-Model