s40rch

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About s40rch

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  • Model of Volvo
    V70 (Estate P1)
  • Location (County)
    Wiltshire
  • Location (Town/City)
    Devizes

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  • Gender
    Male
  1. In that case have fun fishing the sump plug out of the oil pan/bucket
  2. The engine will have an amount of wear at millage with your oil, the thicker oil will slow the rate of wear. Continuing to run a thin oil just means that the engine will expire sooner.
  3. Not what you want this week
  4. A good quality 10w40 for a standard car with regular changes. Once you start fiddling with them and pushing the car harder then a 10w60 is recommended on this forum.
  5. Agreed with Morgan on the handbrake shoe adjusters, a must have! Look forward to seeing the updates, good to see another forum member nearby! Ryan
  6. Any updates on the progress of this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. You wont get it off the shelf usually, maybe at ECP but for a high price, its under £100 for a 20L drum from mytyres found on google shopping. Or take the M4 down to the cave in Yate
  8. That is a bit worrying that an you can have imminent engine failure from just changing to piss thin oil, I'm guessing the damage had already been done in those cases? I'm not sure if you have one but Andy also has a dice so will be able to read your oil pressure to make sure it hasn't done any damage. Lets just be glad you asked the question after 800 miles rather than 8000 If I can be of any assistance I'm only in Devizes/Calne, I don't however have enough stock of 10w60 currently or a dice
  9. Hope you're ok bud, it looks like a fun corner if you get it right, shocked that it tipped just as it was coming to a halt. I guess that's the joy of spinning sideways and digging in. Glad to see you're staying committed, most would have ran away by now.
  10. Are you sure the dealer used 5w-30? They really should be more educated that it isn't suitable in a modified T5, MRG used to use 10w40 on all 5 pots which were older than 10 years or 100k from memory. 5w30 would have been used and recommended from factory for emissions and economy purposes but its not good for the longevity of the engine (no manufacturer will ever tell you that). You will consume oil at a higher rate than previously, lets hope it hasn't caused any wear to major complements ... September is a long way away so maybe change the oil before you next take the car for a hammering? It's less than £5/L for shell 10w-60. Tim advised me from ownership of a T5 that 10w60 is what's proven best, it's not ideal in winter but he has never had an engine fail when using it, but on the other hand seen many fail on 5w30 and 10w40. He actually sent me a photo of a boot full of this knackered cranks which he had accumulated from ST owners running "piss thin oil" I am now going to bang my head against a wall after reading Ashoks post, although it makes sense why, I just have no ambition to stock more than one grade, or try to mix it.
  11. What oil are you using? 0-30 will be consumed quicker than 10-60 for example.
  12. Is the nozzle orifice size selection the same? I believe we all run 500CC, also is there a check valve rated at 15psi in the nozzle?
  13. The lower image shows the correct order in an exploded version. If your o ring is still sat in its home position then I wouldn't bother but I think we need to get a spare each. I'll contact the dealer I used about ordering a few up once this one arrives tomorrow! Or perhaps go down Ashok's route of aquamist. I'm still shocked about the lack of info online. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Not sure if this is the right area but I think this should be pinned for general knowledge due to the seriousness of this faulty product. Last year in September I purchased a brand new AEM WMI kit part number 30-3302. The kit has been faultless up until recently and has been a major improvement in the running of my car. The issue arose in May, 8 months after purchasing the kit. It was at the Nurburgring where I had some strange behaviour where the WMI didn't seem to be having much of an effect and didn't consume even half of what I expected it to. Upon arriving home I took the nozzle off and cleaned the filter, after doing so it made a huge difference but something still wasn't right, the system didn't always seem to inject and not only that the fluid would leak through the nozzle assembly while the car wasn't running, it actually caused a the car to hydro lock or run incredibly rich after leaving over night, so much so it consumed a whole tank in a couple of days which would usually last a few months. It wasn't until Andy sent me these images highlighting a small purple o ring which was supposed to be inside the assembly (where the pipe connects) had seemed to of slipped through the assembly and was just sat in front of the filter, this meant that the nozzle no longer acted like a check valve or non return valve but allowing the fluid to leak though the assembly, this also meant that the system wasn't primed ready for when the fluid was requested. This explained my running issues but shockingly there was nothing showing the correct assembly of the check valve/nozzle online until I came across a service bulletin outlining a known fault with the nozzles in the past, assuming mine was ok now assembled correctly I left it alone. This weekend while mapping with Tim we were having some rather strange readings from the ARF gauge and knock sensors, the car didn't seem to be consistent while working on the ignition and fuel maps, when we tested the WMI again we found the system had no fluid primed, we immediately took the nozzle off to find that yet again the little purple O ring had slipped out of its assembly and was just sat beneath the filter. It was 100% clear then that something wasn't right with this nozzle so we immediately replaced it for a brand new one. This solved the problem so we finished mapping the car in no time at all, of course with great results. After speaking with Andy again it would appear this is a reoccurring issue with his nozzle too, it wouldn't surprise me many more of us have faulty check valves causing no end of odd running issues. I have since contacted the dealer which I purchased my kit from and they're sending me a new nozzle no questions asked, I can only assume that AEM are well aware of this issue occurring after a period of time and giving dealers spare nozzle in case anyone complains. Although my car is ok now, it could in the future cause serious damage to any one of our cars, I would probably recommend replacing this nozzle once a year, although mine has only lasted 8 months before causing issues. I guess some of you have kits which are out of warranty but should really be getting the nozzles replaced free of charge given the known issue which I don't think is a one off. AEM Technical Service Bulletin http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/tsb/Water_Meth_Nozzle/WM_TSB_AEM-2012-001RevA.pdf Correct assembly images - note the o ring sat recessed on the sprung loaded plastic component and not the filter side of the nozzle. I hope this information is found useful to others who are having running issues when using WMI. Cheers, Ryan.
  15. Cheers! See you in a few weeks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk