tingy

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  • Model of Volvo
    V70 (Estate P2 05>)
  • Location (County)
    Hertfordshire
  • Location (Town/City)
    watford

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    Male
  • Location
    watford

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  1. Thats a good point i did run the same actuator on the C70 that may well explain it if the pressures we run arnt enough to force the wastegate open on a standard actuator and running these turbos above 1.5bar is not condusive to its health why does the forge actuator exist and why are there at least 2 running red springs? i just mean when i accelerate in 6th (im using 6th as my example as its the only gear i really accelerate in from low revs) just enough that the turbo is required generally it will indicate a solid stable .5bar on my gauge or if i want to speed up at a reasonable rate then i generally get an indicated 1bar again solid and stable but then again the throttle isnt moving either so is it just muscle memory that im hitting the same peddle position and so by default the same boost or is there something else in play?
  2. I run the silly red 1.4bar spring and my boost control everywhere seams fine the only thing i notice is if i stab my foot down in the correct gear occasionally i get a slight stutter (nothing like what Andy is discribing just a single hiccup) then the car takes off if this is the only draw back to the silly red spring il be leaveing it in tbh ive never seen a mapped car not overshoot slightly even my ME7 C70 used to do it, the 850 (pre MBC) again on correct gear WOT would hit just over 1.5bar for a sec then settle back down to 1.4 - does yours not do this at all? tbh i dont know how my car could get more driveable at lower throttle inputs your extra 100cc will give you more low down umph afaik so perhaps that helps with feel but my car is certainly as linier as i would like it to be and 6th gear driving with very low input is effortless, considering 75% of the time im driving it anything below 50% throttle input is just a waste of time and the other 25% of driving time im on a moterway/autobhan driving a long distance
  3. if this is the case as i steadily increase throttle my boost should climbe at virtually the same rate? if 2% throttle position can make such a differance how is it i always seam to see .5bar and 1bar on part throttle roll ons i find it hard to believe my foot is accurate to within 2% peddle position every time?
  4. Im booked in the travelodge 29th and 30th but a bit like irf im gonna see how i feel il almost certainly be there in the 29th but might head home after the trackday (maybe on the back of an AA wagon :lol:)
  5. So turbos in general as we all know work on witchcraft but ive been trying to understand some of the simpler bits of em, lately ive been trying to get my head around actuators and in particular their spring pressures there is some info ive found on t'internet but as with most things if i can express it in my own words and have that confirmed/corrected then it will (hopefully) stick better theres going to be a lot of assumptions on how things work here and if i get something wrong early on then i expect it to be compounded more as i waffle on (for info ive used 1.4bar example as thats my peak boost pressure) My understanding of an actuator is that it holds the wastegate flap in the turbo closed until you reach your desired peak boost then it opens gradually to let any extra pressure out into the exhaust instead of forcing it past the turbine wheel, the more air you try to force in the more it opens, correct? In its most basic form the actuator has a feed from the inlet manifold and when the pressure matches whatever pressure spring you have it opens up but on our cars we dont just rely on that we run a TCV which allows us to run more boost then our actuator spring alone would allow for (E.G. A 1bar actuator spring turbo can run 1.4bar) in my current understanding the TCV controls the air flow to the actuator until desired target pressure is met and then either opens right up and lets the actuator see full pressure or gradually bleeds it in to further control how the actuator opens not sure which, although from the way my 850 overshoots when it goes for max boost i used to assume the TCV just snaps open and the overshoot is the delay between the TCV seeing max boost and opening and then the actuator reacting - but ive just had an MBC fitted which completely removes that overshoot and puts it dead on desired max pressure so ive no idea how thats doing what it does if my previous theory on how it worked were true so now im thinking the TCV deliberately overshoots and then reigns itself back to the desired level as although overshoots are bad performance is more important (to us) so they (the mapper) decided overshoot and checking it back to give instant performance was better then gradually building to the correct pressure which would give poorer performance in which case the MBC is not allowing that designed overshoot ive not driven an unmapped turbo car with a boost gauge so do standard cars overshoot too, is their mapping based more on component longevity and reliability so it builds boost up to max rather then pulling it back? Now onto the real reason im currently interested in this subject actuator spring pressure as i surmised above in its most basic form spring pressure is all thats required to control boost (correct?) say i want to run 1.4bar - ok buy a spring tuned to open at 1.4bar fit it and away we go but with our TCV (however it works) we've added another level of control so theoretically we could run a 0.1bar spring and let the TCV do all the work,i appreciate that in practice this wont work as there is pressure against the wastegate flap itself and once it exceeds 0.1bar will start to force it open but pretend this wont happen would the 0.1bar spring be a viable option? I think the reason some of us are running stiffer springs is to negate that pressure forcing the waste gate open and the longer that stays shut the quicker we can build boost before it starts to bleed it off (correct?) so ideally matching your desired spring to your desired boost is the best solution as you get nice aggressive power delivery which gives you the kick in the back we all love (why else do we drive turbos??) but could we notice the difference between a 1.4bar spring and say a 0.7bar spring? Surely by the time we notice the waste gate starting to bleed from being forced open its not that much further to peak anyway and once you get a turbo moving (which by .7bar it should be doing nicely) its much easier to get them to rev faster so the higher up the pressure scale you go the quicker it will be able to build more pressure (i think) basically what im suggesting is on WOT the difference in time between a 1.4bar spring car hitting 1.4bar and a .7bar spring car hitting 1.4bar will be so negligible would we notice? When we run less boost then max say with a 6th gear (5 speeds are for women and children :D) roll on is the boost pressure purely determined by the amount of airflow over the turbine wheel? I dont think it is as the car seams to select very uniform pressures and hold them so say 1/4throttle ish .5bar half throttle ish 1bar etc and i very much doubt my foot is accurate enough to select the same throttle position to give the exact same boost pressure every time so how is the turbo controlling it, if the actuator cant open until i have 1.4bar in the system as my spring wont allow it to and the actuator controls boost level wtf is allowing it to hold 1bar are we back to witchcraft???
  6. If your willing to do the labour yourself (it will be an engine out job) then its even better get a 2.4 block bored out and shimmed then just fit it yourself but the shimming is the most important part otherwise you will end up in the same boat in a few years im sure ive been told that any 5 cylinder whiteblock petrol engine can be bored out and will work but id get the definite answer from Mr Williams
  7. Think i threw mine away when i upgraded to 320's if it helps any facelift D5 on ebay should have 305 brakes fitted standard
  8. Good to see another T5 being looked after too many of em just getting scrapped now, keep us updated on any progress
  9. Hi welcome to the forum Option 4 get a 2.4block bored out to 2.5 then fitted and shimmed by Tim Williams - job jobbed (i imagine this would sit cost wise between options 2 and 3 but imo is a better otion the both 2 and 3) option 4.5 if funds are tight atm get Tim to check it out and shimm the block now that might get you a bit more life until you can collect the pennies together to complete option 4
  10. Iirc your V50 has a differant hub size and offset so none of those options will work on yours the 320mm set up people are talking about on your car is from a focus ST (i think)
  11. I saw a few of them the other day stripping em out does seam to help a lot but i cant bring myself to do it
  12. I imagine the alarm is a permenant live so is the interior lights too maybe some other stuff stereo and fan should definitely turn off with the ignition
  13. RIP Nicky Hayden :(

    1. DSK

      DSK

      wtf - will google to see what happened, RIP

    2. tingy

      tingy

      Happened 5 days ago been hoping he would pull through :(

    3. DSK

      DSK

      Just seen it, hit by a car whilst on a training ride on a cycle....condolences to his family such a tragic incident.

  14. I saw tbh i didnt think you would be interested as you prefer clean tidy ones and you already have a set
  15. Your chance to own the infamous Canistos of my C70 and later 850 fame 5 x 7.5j 17inch canistos for sale 4 with 215x45 federal RSR's - 2 (fronts) have about 2.5mm tread on them and should see out 1 or 2 more trackdays 2 (rears) have about 5mm of tread and plenty of life in them these have been used on track only so dont have many heat cycles in them 1 (the spare) with a 215/45 Conti sport contact 2 again with about 5mm of tread on it (215's because i ran these on my 850 and 225's just will not fit) these have been used as everyday wheels on a carbotech equipped car so they are well protected from paint damage by a layer of brake dust but there are issues in the paint which i have tried to picture some (not all) of, in short while on the car they look fine but they wont stand up to close scrutiny all are straight and hold pressure so are good for a set of trackday or winter wheels I had tried to take a shot of the face of all 5 but my photo-fu let me down and this is the only non blurry one, i can get shots of the other 4 if theres any interest the 'spare' is also a slightly different shade (its lighter) as i got it refurbed somewhere differant to the other 4 and they couldnt colour match it properly its hard to see in the pic but noticeable in the flesh front tyre rear tyre £180 for all 5 P.S. These wheels have lapped the Nurburgring and will provide an additional 5hp per wheel when on the car (yes even the spare while its in the boot!!!!!) on request i can also provide a 2.5hp gain Nurburgring sticker so a potential 27.5hp up for grabs here!?!?!?!?!?