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Everything posted by tingy

  1. Youve told me twice your never having a passenger lap off me again
  2. So turbos in general as we all know work on witchcraft but ive been trying to understand some of the simpler bits of em, lately ive been trying to get my head around actuators and in particular their spring pressures there is some info ive found on t'internet but as with most things if i can express it in my own words and have that confirmed/corrected then it will (hopefully) stick better theres going to be a lot of assumptions on how things work here and if i get something wrong early on then i expect it to be compounded more as i waffle on (for info ive used 1.4bar example as thats my peak boost pressure) My understanding of an actuator is that it holds the wastegate flap in the turbo closed until you reach your desired peak boost then it opens gradually to let any extra pressure out into the exhaust instead of forcing it past the turbine wheel, the more air you try to force in the more it opens, correct? In its most basic form the actuator has a feed from the inlet manifold and when the pressure matches whatever pressure spring you have it opens up but on our cars we dont just rely on that we run a TCV which allows us to run more boost then our actuator spring alone would allow for (E.G. A 1bar actuator spring turbo can run 1.4bar) in my current understanding the TCV controls the air flow to the actuator until desired target pressure is met and then either opens right up and lets the actuator see full pressure or gradually bleeds it in to further control how the actuator opens not sure which, although from the way my 850 overshoots when it goes for max boost i used to assume the TCV just snaps open and the overshoot is the delay between the TCV seeing max boost and opening and then the actuator reacting - but ive just had an MBC fitted which completely removes that overshoot and puts it dead on desired max pressure so ive no idea how thats doing what it does if my previous theory on how it worked were true so now im thinking the TCV deliberately overshoots and then reigns itself back to the desired level as although overshoots are bad performance is more important (to us) so they (the mapper) decided overshoot and checking it back to give instant performance was better then gradually building to the correct pressure which would give poorer performance in which case the MBC is not allowing that designed overshoot ive not driven an unmapped turbo car with a boost gauge so do standard cars overshoot too, is their mapping based more on component longevity and reliability so it builds boost up to max rather then pulling it back? Now onto the real reason im currently interested in this subject actuator spring pressure as i surmised above in its most basic form spring pressure is all thats required to control boost (correct?) say i want to run 1.4bar - ok buy a spring tuned to open at 1.4bar fit it and away we go but with our TCV (however it works) we've added another level of control so theoretically we could run a 0.1bar spring and let the TCV do all the work,i appreciate that in practice this wont work as there is pressure against the wastegate flap itself and once it exceeds 0.1bar will start to force it open but pretend this wont happen would the 0.1bar spring be a viable option? I think the reason some of us are running stiffer springs is to negate that pressure forcing the waste gate open and the longer that stays shut the quicker we can build boost before it starts to bleed it off (correct?) so ideally matching your desired spring to your desired boost is the best solution as you get nice aggressive power delivery which gives you the kick in the back we all love (why else do we drive turbos??) but could we notice the difference between a 1.4bar spring and say a 0.7bar spring? Surely by the time we notice the waste gate starting to bleed from being forced open its not that much further to peak anyway and once you get a turbo moving (which by .7bar it should be doing nicely) its much easier to get them to rev faster so the higher up the pressure scale you go the quicker it will be able to build more pressure (i think) basically what im suggesting is on WOT the difference in time between a 1.4bar spring car hitting 1.4bar and a .7bar spring car hitting 1.4bar will be so negligible would we notice? When we run less boost then max say with a 6th gear (5 speeds are for women and children :D) roll on is the boost pressure purely determined by the amount of airflow over the turbine wheel? I dont think it is as the car seams to select very uniform pressures and hold them so say 1/4throttle ish .5bar half throttle ish 1bar etc and i very much doubt my foot is accurate enough to select the same throttle position to give the exact same boost pressure every time so how is the turbo controlling it, if the actuator cant open until i have 1.4bar in the system as my spring wont allow it to and the actuator controls boost level wtf is allowing it to hold 1bar are we back to witchcraft???
  3. There are quite a few threads knocking about where people have given their opinions on BC's, KW's and bilstein shocks with lowering springs have a look around in the suspension section at some old threads and you should get a good idea of what you want
  4. Bring your nephew along guarenteed to have more fun and save himself an absolute fortune in both the short and long term! win-win
  5. Tbh prices have gone nuts the last few years particularly for T5R's and R's i paid £1400 for a dog of a T5R saloon 4-5years ago and then set about replacing everything it really depends on 2 factors how much do you want the car if its your dream car then id say a lot and is £4500 in your price range, you also need to consider the running costs and general failures that will occur on a car that old and the double/treble those costs if you intend to modify and track the car If i had to replace mine now i would avoid the T5R and R's and get a bog standard T5 and then modify it they way i wanted as once modified they become effectively the same car anyway
  6. Personally id prefer cash on collection get one o them note checking marker pens if your worried should reduce some risk i wont sell on ebay due to paypal its too easy to get ripped off with it
  7. Car looks great looking forward to seeing it go I would post a similar pic of mine where its parked now ready to go but i might get in trouble so im not gonna oil change and few tweeks are done im ready to rock
  8. If its just a hole in the exhaust then wrap it, its only gotta work for a weekend thats what im doing lol hopefully doing an oil change and a few other lil bits this weekend the car is largely unchanged since the ring trip although i did spend a day at Tims for something important i cannot for the life of me remember what though other then it got a catch can fitted 🤔
  9. So a week to go i assume everyones cars are done, dusted, fighting fit and ready to go?
  10. Welcome to the forum
  11. As i said if the aquamist nozzle will fit the boss on my intake pipe then i would rather one of those over a replacement AEM one Ashok do you know if the thread is the same?
  12. Genuinely didnt even know these existed i want some too
  13. I remember your issues i also remember your car spluttering into life on 3/4 cylinders and smokeing out a petrol station if all these issues are down to the nozzle i might just swap mine out pre-emptively
  14. That is useful info just for my own interest could you put more detail on the pics is the gold bit on the left the filter/nozzle assembly your talking about? If you still have this one appart can you take a pic through the end of it to where the washer ends up tbh if i start to experience these issues id be more inclined to switch to a differant nozzle rather then replaceing the AEM one that has the potential to go defective again afaik there are 3 brands of nozzle Aquamist, Devils Own and AEM so which one do we think builds decent nozzles if AEM dont
  15. Welcome to the forum
  16. If they are anything like carbotechs a trackday/ring trip will get them to shut up for a while
  17. Ive never seen a good review of EBC shite stuff pads from anyone whos opinion i respect why bother tbh? Standard or ferodo will be fine and a known quantity stick with those imo
  18. I have the above on my D5 and am very happy with it and particularly in auto guise makes the D5 much more pleasent to drive but you have a convertible diesel why do you want to exceed 125mph lol
  19. Good to hear your still at it and circulating I dont know how racers do it tbh particularly bike racers, have a huge crash get fired up in the air then slide down the road then get on a new bike and arrive at the same corner just as on the limit as they were when they crashed i had a moment at the ring on the first day and spent the rest of the holiday avoiding getting anywhere near doing it again is there a special training course for leaving your brain in the pits to go and blitz the track?
  20. If you have the complete doner car you could swap everything you need - there are advantages it should be a younger rack and no more leaky header tank if you fit a P2.5 one
  21. As above if its a pre ME7 car with a throttle cable they should be identical if its an ME7 car then AFAIK you will also need the power steering pump, resivouir, coolent header tank and maybe pipework and aux belt too but i have seen converted cars so it is an option
  22. Its ok sorted now its 16 faces thanks
  23. So im struggling to just find a straight answer to this i gather for an ME7 sump oil filter housing i need an 86mm socket but is it a 16 or 18 faced one - or have i got it totally wrong?
  24. Forgot to respond to this the other day thats a useful vid and confirms my thoughts on the overshoot and what i kept getting told by Mr Williams about the diddy lil 19t re the boost tailing off didnt really pay much attention to the other 2 as they arnt relevant to me atm
  25. Sheesh that looks good makes me miss mine 😢 (Although mine was never that clean)