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Found 15 results

  1. Got to thin the fleet out again so the Volvo is up for sale. Here are the key points. 165k miles 9 months MOT BSR tuned. Goes very well. Box fine, no crunches etc, clutch doesn't slip, engine purrs and is mechanically sound. It won't let you down. Lots and lots of history, both Keys present , cambbelt, water pump etc all been done. Interior is in very good condition. No rips etc and everything works. Has fancy wheels, roof bars, spoiler and tow bar (never been used) In my ownership it has had Aux belt, tensioner and pulleys done along with new Intercooler and a full service. No rust on the car anywhere. Bad Points There is a small dent on the rear door (body shop quoted £40 to have pulled). There is an occasional rumble/knocking when driving along. It doesn't affect handling etc but you can definitely hear something. I asked my tester to investigate at the time of MOT and he was convinced it was the rear ARB drop links and passenger side ball joint (both of which were changed) but the noise remained after. I'm at a loss to what it could be and honestly haven't a clue. It could be as simple as an exhaust rubber that's gone and is knocking. The drivers side wing mirror casing is missing due to a crazy pensioner deciding he'd had enough of driving on his side of the road. The glass is still intact but the cowling is missing. The fuel gauge only reads up to half way. It is accurate below this but it won't read over it. It's been a great work horse and is very reliable and economic but can also be great fun and achieve 140MPH if you desire. Asking price is £600 and the car is based in Walsall in the West Midlands. Any questions please feel free to DM me.
  2. A question to the expert. I own a XC70, D5, 2011. While selecting D the automatic gear gives a hard bump. The Volvo dealer changed the oil, which worked for one month. They electronically adjusted, which worked for a month. And finally they adjusted the gears, which worked for a few weeks. Its sometimes more frequent then other, even some days completely smooth without any problem. Anybody a suggestion what might be wrong?
  3. ive got a chance to buy a 2008 xc70 d5 manual, the seller claims the oil filter wasnt tightened and lost oil. developed a knock, not sure how bad yet. is it easier to change the engine or repair it? are the short engines the same through out the d5 range, with different injectors turbos etc?? T.I.A
  4. Hello, I own a V70 D5 2006 model. I bought second hand from Volvo garage representative in Thailand, Chiang Mai with 134000Km in Feb 15. After 1 and 1/2 year and 60000 Km more I got a message that my soot filter was full. Reporting to the garage few times with them not being able to fix it, it turned out that I had to change the particulate filter and the pressure sensor. The amount I had to pay for those parts amounts to 10% of the total price I paid for the car. Cherry on the cake they don't want to restitute me the old particulate filter which I could sale for an uncertain amount of money. However this is not the point of money it is that I feel this old spare part belongs to me as I bought it with the car. Is this specific to Volvo Thailand or is this a worldwide Volvo Policy? I also found a bit odd that a particulate filter has to be changed after 200 000 km on this car. I have seen on some forums that it could be cleaned up but my garage claimed it could not be done. In brief, I have the feeling of being ripped off. Does anyone knows more about these problems with particulate filter? Sorry eventhough I am a scientist, I have no mechanical knowledge. Thanks in advance.
  5. I have a c30 d5 approx 230 bhp that has been suffering an intermittent power loss and is recording no fault codes whatsoever it has had a dpf removal and remap carried out fault occured before this was done and remains after any suggestions greatfully recieved many thanks.
  6. Hello from Australia Yes, I rode a kangaroo to work, battle deadly reptiles and insects constantly and guard wombats patrol my property. Bought myself a '08 S40 D5 last Friday to replace an '04 AUDI A8 4.2 Quattro, different cars in almost every way. Unfortunately the A8 was about to implode and cost exorbitant amounts of money to repair (had already changed to coilovers after the front air strut(s) blew). So with my first child due in under a month it had to be traded in, no time for unreliable cars or expensive repairs. Dealer's check of the A8 consisted of "the engine light's not on, all good" sucks to be the wholesaler that bought it off them. Had the BMW dealer complete a minor service that was due on the S40 as a delivery item along with a couple of other minor issues after an inspection. Go out on Saturday and engine maintenance required message comes up... This morning I spoke to Berry Motor Group whom is the go to place for Volvo in Victoria. After stressing about it because I don't have VIDA / DICE yet, when I mentioned BMW had serviced it they immediately said the dealer will have over filled it. Sure enough when I had checked the dipstick cold after the message came up initially it was right to the top of the marker. Crisis averted. Now to extract the excess oil and reset the codes. Now I am wary of not having a decent bash plate to protect the sump and gearbox as I live on a dirt road - so no I don't really ride a kangaroo or have wombats, they are just other things trying to kill me.
  7. Hello forum ! I am the happy owner of a XC90 2006 diesel engine D5: 5244T4, 185 ps But now my car is in limp mode, I have an error code ECM-6810 which translates into VIDA by: signal too high on the turbo actuator. I bought a second hand electronic turbo actuator, I plugged this actuator and still have the same error. Would any of you have any hint on the origin of this problem ? Thank you all
  8. Ok, here is the story I wanted to contribute back. Did some research here (t5d5) and in other places, looked at shops online and placed an order about a couple weeks ago. Please note we all have varying degrees of requirements, mine were fairly simple : - Added power and faster response, improving on a great base - Strictly Stage1 (original hardware) - Torque limited for safeguarding the Geartronic box - No trip to a shop required - all this is computer tuned those days unless you Stage2 or 3 I was looking for Polestar official upgrade to be within tolerances as much as possible , but it was not available for my car. So I looked for the nearest approximation. Few online shops actually have a torque limited version for my car, and I shied away from anything promising more than 400 Nm. I eventually settled for Rica. Now, I'm not here to stir any hard feelings (I stumbled on an old post on the forum about some Rica UK and their people yesterday that would have changed my mind, but I did not see it then). Anyway my experience was "B2C", I sent a couple email questions to Rica and got precise, to the point answers. Asked about support, one reply was "we will support you until it works". My risk was essentially to brick the car. So I ordered their iSoftLoader and "ePower" map. Got it in the mail, overall download and preparation before mapping was a breeze (note for geeks : was done with a Windows XP VM running off anything not a PC) - overall I started on a monday morning and mapped the next morning. Apart from the heart pounding flashing alarms all over the place, mapping was a breeze, too. Interestingly, I felt the car needed a day to settle. Immediate feeling was not very good (turbo hiss and funny throttle response when in cruise) but It changed after a few km. I have now about 500 km under the belt, including one of my reference trips where I know every turn. It is a highway trip between 2 cities that takes about an hour 15 minutes and 130 km, strictly following traffic rules and using cruise control when appropriate. On acceleration, MPG seems considerably higher. On cruise, I had something like 0,3L/100 less but overall on the trip my consumption was nearly the same : 6,1 L/100 to 6,2L/100, my very best with the original setup being 6,2L/100 (Note : about 41,3 to 42 MPG versus 41,3 at my very best). The real winner is pickup from standstill : gearbox lag on standstill is considerably reduced, though likely at the cost of more consumption. Then the gearbox holds the 5th gear in almost any situation over 90 km/h (our limit is 130 km/h just as a reminder). Added oomph is clearly there. So on the short term the goods are delivered as advertised, no hassles. I intend to update this post in the future with issues (if any) and once my favorite trip to Italy is taken (again I know every turn on the way and my MPG). I'll also have a VIDA reading for errors. Please take this as it is, a shared experience about a reasonable performance increase on an auto gearbox. Comments and questions welcome. Cheers.
  9. I am going to remove the DPF from my D5 C30 and was wondering if anyone could give me a heads up where to find it on the exhaust system and the best way to get at it to take it off? Thanks
  10. I have recently bought a 2007 C30 D5, I am just wondering if anyone knows of different ways of tuning it other than a standard re-map. Such as turbo, injector or inter-cooler upgrades?
  11. Hi Everyone, I'm looking for feedback on the following setup : Pre-restyling V50 D5 Geartronic (basically the 5-speed 2,4L 180 HP version) Any Euro4 D5 running into a 5 speed Geartronic (2005-2008 loosely) Stage 1 tune to something "mild" i.e. +25 HP / +50 Nm similar to 400nm / 205HP, be it with Rica, MTE or any other as long as it is a "caned" tune and not a custom-made tune. This is not a religious war over which provider you went for, but a straight survey about your satisfaction with your tuned car. - How long / milage have you been running with a tuned D5 ? - Were there any issue with maintenance / parts / broken bits more than expected, gearbox in particular ? - Overall how happy are you with your setup ? Thank you for your patience in sharing this feedback. I'll share mine in a separate post in the next few days. Cheers, Julien.
  12. Hi Everyone, I hope someone is able to help me with my Volvo V70 D5 as I am reaching my whit's end with what the problem could be. I've owned my Volvo for 5 years now and ownership has been a joy. Comfortable, Economical and Practical. In the past five years the only thing that I ever needed to do was to service it regularly and to change the starter motor. However, in the 3 months I have been experiencing a lot of problems with the car stalling for no reason whatsoever. The first time I noticed something wasn't quite right was during the mornings on a typically cold Scottish morning. I would start the car, select drive and set off. That initial set off from the drive was extremely hesitant. As if there was no power at all. But then in a matter of 20 meters the car would finally have power and that was the end of that. The fuel economy has dropped slightly too. The first time the car stalled happened one morning driving to work and the car's revs seemed unstable even though the accelerator pedal was at the same position. Then suddenly it stalled as if there was no fuel. I restarted the car and it was as if it was in limp mode. I managed to get the car to work in a low gear, mainly 3rd and I gave it to a mechanic nearby. He plugged a diagnostics machine and got the following readings: 2503 2501 6805 300A 2502 1300 2505 6800 The fault codes seemed to be a wide array of different sensors which I thought meant it might be the battery not holding its charge. So I decided to recharge the battery, but all seems to be fine with the battery. And because of the fuel pressure being too high and too low, I thought it was the intank fuel pump, so I had that changed and serviced the car with all the filters and fresh oil, but the problem still persisted. The final straw came as I was returning home on a dark country lane when I was with my wife and daughter. And the car decided to stall suddenly. The initial attempts to restart never worked so I gave the car a 60 second break and then tried again and it restarted but it was in limp mode and again I drove the car back in 2nd and 3rd gear. Thankful that I got home that night, I tried the next morning to restart the car and since then the car won't start now. I have cleaned out the EGR valve, but only had a small amount of deposit inside. However I am still stumped as to what it could be. Could anyone advise me as to what I should do next as I'm originally from Birmingham and have moved up to North Lanarkshire which is pretty much between Glasgow and Edinburgh and I do not know a good mechanic that I could take the car to, hence I am trying to recitfy the problem myself initially. My next point of call is possibly the injectors, MAP sensor or ECM. I would like to keep the car as long as possible, as it has been a great car. After researching online there are so many possibilities as to what it could likely be, so your experience and advice would be very much appreciated. Many Thanks Adam
  13. Hi All, Completely new to this forum, was looking for some help and advice from more experienced and mechanically-minded Volvo owners. I bought a 2007 S60 D5 manual yesterday. It's got 130,000 on the clock, runs smooth and is very tidy in and out. Today a warning message came up: 'engine service required' - gutted as I was really happy with the car! Car went into limp mode every now and again, so I took it into a Volvo specialist. Guy spotted that the swirl flap linkage was broken and said he'd have it replaced in minutes. When he tried to replace it, he said the swirl flap itself has too much 'play' in it and will need replacing. This would involve taking rocker cover off, injectors out, amongst other things - total price would be around £225, but I think that's + VAT Does that sound reasonable? The guy seemed nice but I know nothing about engines! Assuming I'm not being ripped off, what else should I get checked/changed while it's in? The car has a part service history and I want to make sure it's in tip top shape when it comes out. Can anyone recommend what else I should get done? Thanks for your help in advance. Chris
  14. Paid a visit to Shark Performance last Saturday for a full service and was so impressed that I decided to return yesterday for some tuning and styling. The customer service is absolutely top notch, made me feel very at home and answered all of my questions in maximum detail (there was a lot of questions). Really dedicated in setting the car for my needs and getting the job done right. I went for a milltek cat back exhaust, stage 1 remap, bilstein coilovers and rota wheels and my god what a difference it has made! The torque is unbelievable!
  15. Greetings chaps, any potential ideas for my current problem would be much appreciated.. So, when changing gear, for example from second to third a thud/clunk is quite audible. Not when engaging the clutch, but physically going into third. The same noise will then happen when the clutch is let out. This is most prominent when going uphill (so more load) and beween 1500-2000rpm. (It may happen at higher rpm but engine noise is of course alot louder) On flats/downhills most of the time it will not happen and shifts like it should. As part of maintenance I have changed and fitted the following (all within a year) -Front wishbones -Drop links all round -Top mounts, spring seats, shocks, springs all round -XC90 Driveshaft bolts -Top engine mount that connects to the cross bar -Lower engine torque mount that connects to the gearbox The car is an early 2004 s60 D5 (163) manual. 135K miles. Original fly, clutch, slave cylinder. Other information which may be of help- -I have gone round in circles with complete lock on and no noise is audible from the CV's -Approx 6 weeks ago the clutch only came up a third of its normal travel and the car wouldn't change gear. I had to physically put my foot underneath the pedal and pull it up. This has only happened this one time, it has worked fine as it should since. No strange feeling, just engages, disengages as it always has -There has been no change in level of brake fluid -When on a complete flat if engaging first (or any gear including reverse) the car will rock slightly forward, or backward if reverse is chosen.(just rocks, doesn't start to drive off) -when standing going from neural to first to neutral (clutch out) to reverse it also makes a bit of a clunk. If the clutch is not let out (so left pressed down when shifting 1st to reverse) then no clunk will happen. -When rolling (30 mph for example) with the clutch left pressed down, quickly shifting back and forth from 3rd to 4th also produces a thud. So far all I can think of is a duff gearbox or the slave cylinder not disengaging the clutch fully? Anyone ever had similar symptoms to this? Would there be any point changing the gearbox oil and replacing the break fluid? Cheers in advance chaps!