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Found 20 results

  1. Hoping to try and get some advice. travelling at 40mph and the engine just died. 1998 V70R, electrics worked fine but engine wont fire. Had to get towed back by a Ford... sad times. Anyway, pulled a plug and no spark, the spark plugs are new Volvo, recently done the Dist cap and rotor arm, ht leads are a 2 years old at most. So striped the coil off and got a meter on it to get about 0.9 ohms which i think seems to be good??? Pulled the plugs on the Crank Sensor and getting just over 2.5 ohms, so is that good? Pulled the cam sensor and im getting all sorts of readings all under 1 ohm. Some terminals dont give any signal so what is the norm. I have done a video but cant upload it. I have gone to the facebook forums for help but im getting myself lost with all the directions from timing to bell housing earth connections. I am only an intermediate diyer. Any help is much appreciated Paul.
  2. Afternoon All, A while ago i swapped out the old london underground half leathers for full grey leather from what i was told was a P80 V70. (seats were not in the car when i bought them, so could have been from an 855) Drivers is electric memory, passenger is manually adjustable. All fitted nicely, made up the wiring to make the electric seat adjuster work, and all is hunkey dory. Aside from drivers heated seat wont heat. when i looked, i found the live coming from the car, into a plug which plugged into a plug on the seat, but the live didnt match up to a wire. just an empty port on the seat plug. So, my question is, does anyone know where the wire from the seat pads goes? or its colour? on seats from a v70? the passenger seat has red and yellow wires which match perfectly to the seat plug with wires of the same colour and they work fine. just the drivers seat i am struggling with. Any and all help greatly appreciated. Dave
  3. Hello, My name is Mike and I previously had a bad oil leak (in late December). I discovered that it was coming from the front camshaft, and so I bought it and replaced it. The main problem I am having is that I didn't understand that the camshafts are not marked in any way or only a one-way fit... so I didn't mark them at all when I was taking them off. I've tried to adjust them, spin them (and by now it's about the 4th time I've tried to rotate them), and I think there are only about 9 different ways that they can actually fit onto the car (3 holes in each of the two pulleys- 3x3=9). A few questions that I have are is this a one-person job (can it be done alone), is there any quick and easy way to do this (since I am beginning to get really frustrated trying this), and is there any more information that I need to finish this job? I feel like I'm getting nowhere. Thanks in advance for all of your help. :-)
  4. A question to the expert. I own a XC70, D5, 2011. While selecting D the automatic gear gives a hard bump. The Volvo dealer changed the oil, which worked for one month. They electronically adjusted, which worked for a month. And finally they adjusted the gears, which worked for a few weeks. Its sometimes more frequent then other, even some days completely smooth without any problem. Anybody a suggestion what might be wrong?
  5. jus bought 58reg v70 T5, 220k ex police couple things - its required 2 x 1ltr top ups, when i bought it i cheked water level before and after test drive and seemed fine, it feels a bit greasy when i dip my finger in it but not loads? 24mpg? really? after few k's on m'ways aswell! - is there a fault? shudders really bad and even had a loud knock under medium/ heavy braking? new discs and pads on the way hopefully sort it? tyre rub in the wheel arches with 225 45 17 (standard alloys )? after a short but "fun" drive the fan keeps running when i stop on the drive, the temp gauge points to 12o clock all the time I'm normally used to it being 10/11 o'clock ish an not moving at all tbh A pre emptive thanks to anyone helping me out
  6. ​Hi All, ​Tried to find a pretty clean, low mileage 850T5R a few years back as wanted to take myself back to the days of BTCC when Racing Volvo estate's rocked my known world. ​Surprisingly, I did the next best thing and bought a low mileage (83,000miles) 1998 Saffron Pearl V70R AWD from a guy down in Luton for £3,450. This meant flying all the way down to Luton, from Aberdeen, with my 8yr old son, at the time, to go see it, and of course, buy it. As we arrived late at night, there was no real test drive. Paperwork, cash handover, then Premier Inn, before heading back up the road...No probs...for the 1st year that is. Then it started. It was one thing after another. Change this, change that, then the biggie . . . White smoke!!! New cylinder head gasket here we go. So...Engine out, down to Glasgow, re-furb, back again, into car. All that pallava took 1 year. Then there was the turbo re-furb etc. etc. etc. Now if I was a sane individual, which I'm afraid I'm not, I should've called up the knackers yard and had them come tow her away as soon as I heard how much it was going to cost to fix. I tried to find a replacement engine, but afraid, rare as rocking horse sh1t. The engine gig alone cost £2,000, never mind turbo's and heater matrix's and all. ​Anywhoose, finally got her back on the road April this year, only to find she was smoking just as much as before, except this time, the colour isn't white :0 ( ​So this is where we are...Mate who own Caledonia Autotech in Turriff has just called to tell me the bad news. Engine re-build. Re-bore, New pistons etc. etc. The price? Well thinking not much change out of £2,000, if not more. So what to do? ​I love the car (Reason why I still have her, and why I've spent so much cash) so trying to keep her as original as possible. Having hemorrhaged sooo much cash so far, which of the following is the best option : Go for a proper re-furb and get her lighting up the tarmac again, whilst having to re-mortgage my house (Keeping it quiet from her indoors) to do so. ​Try to find a replacement engine...Do u guys know what to replace it with, where to find it, so keeping the Beast as original as possible. ​Sell it as is (Car is in pretty good nick for its age, and reason why I didn't want to scrap it in the 1st place. ​Or lastly... ​Send it to Volvo Scrap Heaven!!?! ​So gentlemen, your thoughts and expert advice if you'd be so kind. All Help and Assistance with the above would be very much appreciated. ​Doogie Broon ​p.s. I don't really have room outside the house for her anywhoose (So), Got laid off from my Oil & Gas job last December (Again . . . So), and the wife thinks she looks like a hearse . . . But hey, V70 R Saffy01.bmpV70 R Saffy01.bmp what does she know!!?!
  7. ive got a chance to buy a 2008 xc70 d5 manual, the seller claims the oil filter wasnt tightened and lost oil. developed a knock, not sure how bad yet. is it easier to change the engine or repair it? are the short engines the same through out the d5 range, with different injectors turbos etc?? T.I.A
  8. hi, dads 2008 v70 has intermittent problem with front and rear windscreen washers. headlight washers work fine all the time, but the windows just wipe with no wash. there is water in the bottle. do they run a separate fuse, or separate pumps? are the pumps replaceable? Any and all thoughts, however seemingly obvious, greatly appreciated. Thanks Peeps.
  9. Hi, this is my first post on this forum, Im working on my volvo s 60 2.0t and found this problem with aftermarket intercooler which im going to put on my volvo, old intercooler have intergrated IAT ( Intake Air Temperature) which is flat and square and cant be fitted into new pipes, New intercooler doesnt have this mounting for IAT, does universal types of IAT work good with volvos?? where should I install it ? does anyone have AIRTEC intercooler behind bumper? I found 2 pictures of universal IAT's any advice will be appreciated
  10. I have a c30 d5 approx 230 bhp that has been suffering an intermittent power loss and is recording no fault codes whatsoever it has had a dpf removal and remap carried out fault occured before this was done and remains after any suggestions greatfully recieved many thanks.
  11. Hi guys Im sure this has been mentioned before but im after a bit of specific advice... I bought a s60r exhaust manifold ages ago for my 850 build and have just noticed 2 cracks inside the manifold So basically is this a problem or can I just use it as they arent showing in any way on the back side of the manifold. could they be welded? could I just port out my original t5 manifold for similar performance? Iv uploaded my 850 t5 manifold as well for reference Thanks all!
  12. morning all, i know i am becoming a pain in the arse, but does anyone know if you can remove the interior boot trim panel to gain access to the boot release mechanism without actually opening the boot? the boot is shut, and wont open. outer and inner handles no longer connected to the lock catch. i have managed to pry the top part of the panel away and pull out what i assume is a lock system conecting rod, but cant seem to free the bottom of the panel to gain complete access. dont want to force it if the boot needs to be open to do it. any ideas/sugestions greatly received. Thanks guys.
  13. Morning all, Time to delve once again into your vast bank of knowledge. If you dont mind. :-) Heater fan blower motor thing in the 850 is only blowing on number 4. What would be the most likely culprit for this? Switch, relay, motor, is there a resistor pack? All info gratefully received. :-)
  14. Does anyone have any idea why a 1994 850 would be half heartedly trying to sound its alarm/horn? (Two horns in front of radiator, but only trying to sound one of them)
  15. Hi guys Okay so the story, my 2002 Volvo S 60 T5 has been burning a lot of oil for a number of years now, gets through probably a litre in 4 to 500 miles. Smokes after running down a long hill but also smokes sometimes when you put your foot down hard and I've been at a loss as to why this oil is going. Pcv is clear, Had the turbo rebuild (but I question whether it was done properly) about a year and half ago thinking it might be that but now I think it might also be the valvestem seals as the engine seems to be full of gunk and probably wasn't well looked after and its previous life. Engine has only done 95,000 miles. Anyway I came to compression test it today to see how things looked inside and the results were Not good. My technique may not be the best but I remove the fuel pump relay and remove the coil packs from the wires and took out the plugs, then turn the engine over five times per cylinder. First time round I forgot to keep the throttle wide open however didn't seem to make much difference when I did The results I got basically were cylinder one abd 5 were extremely low building up to a maximum of about 90, the other three werent are bad at about 150. Putting some oil in the low cylinders picked them up by about 20 but still not much better And doing it with throttle wide-open made no difference. Either way there is A big range in the cylinders The only thing that makes me wonder is that the car will start hot or cold within 3 to 5 cranks which is better than my 850 starts with compression of 150 all round, it Also pulls like a train and 0-60 time seems somewhere within the target value of about seven seconds. Is there anything other than piston rings that can cause low compression but halfway decent performance? I thought bad compression would lead to struggling to start and lose a lot of power? Thanks very much in advance Si
  16. Hi guys I have a 2002 Volvo S60 which has developed an annoying problem with the boot not being able to be opened with the handle switch, only the key fob or the key. At the moment when the engine is turned off the only way I can open the boot is either mechanically with the key or using the boot opening function of the key fob. The handle switch does absolutely nothing. When I turn the ignition on or off this triggers the boot to open and if I try and use the handle switch with the engine running it blows the fuse to the rear light clusters and the numberplate lights but does open the boot most times. Today I had a probe with a multimeter on the resistance setting testing it on the wires that lead from the handle, from the lock mechanism itself, and up from the wirejoint that runs behind the left light clusters out of the bodywork into the boot lid, to see if any of the wires were broken. All of the wires and connections showed resistance on the meter in the same way as a piece of new speaker wire does (so I assume are patent), except for a small brown and blue wire which runs from inside the boot of the car up to the first joint in the boot lid where the wire splits to the lock and the handle, which showed no resistance. Because of this I am assuming that maybe this wire has a break? However I bridged it with a piece of new speaker wire which then showed a resistance on the meter but did not solve the problem. I have changed the latch mechanism giving the same problem as before, and tested the switch in the handle using the meter which shows resistance when it is depressed and held. I don't know enough about car wiring to go any further and am at my wits end now so would greatly appreciate any help! Thanks very much!
  17. Well not so much blew off rather broke off! Managed to nurture it off the road and turn the engine off as the needle was rapidly rising. Opened the bonnet and saw the pipe had come off - trouble is the outlet on the rad had sheared off leaving about half an inch to fit the pipe on. The jubilee clip on the pipe had rusted solid so couldn't re-use it (and it was still clamped to the part that had sheared off. Luckily my mate was following in the van so had my tool box at hand to try and remove the jubilee. Ended up going to a parts place in the van and buying some more clips. The existing outlet on the rad was enough to fasten a clip onto and luckily where I had stopped was able to fill a 5 litre container I keep in my car (which I'd just used to fill the washer bottle...).So far it's OK but I've not booted it and kept it under 2k revs. Never tell anyone you have never had any trouble with your car as it wil call you a liar! Trouble is I am now wary of the fact that my rad fix will break so it looks like a new/used rad is needed. Are these easy to fit? I don't fancy a whopping garage bill or is there a way of extending the outlet pipe. Oh the joys of motoring...
  18. Hi Everyone, I hope someone is able to help me with my Volvo V70 D5 as I am reaching my whit's end with what the problem could be. I've owned my Volvo for 5 years now and ownership has been a joy. Comfortable, Economical and Practical. In the past five years the only thing that I ever needed to do was to service it regularly and to change the starter motor. However, in the 3 months I have been experiencing a lot of problems with the car stalling for no reason whatsoever. The first time I noticed something wasn't quite right was during the mornings on a typically cold Scottish morning. I would start the car, select drive and set off. That initial set off from the drive was extremely hesitant. As if there was no power at all. But then in a matter of 20 meters the car would finally have power and that was the end of that. The fuel economy has dropped slightly too. The first time the car stalled happened one morning driving to work and the car's revs seemed unstable even though the accelerator pedal was at the same position. Then suddenly it stalled as if there was no fuel. I restarted the car and it was as if it was in limp mode. I managed to get the car to work in a low gear, mainly 3rd and I gave it to a mechanic nearby. He plugged a diagnostics machine and got the following readings: 2503 2501 6805 300A 2502 1300 2505 6800 The fault codes seemed to be a wide array of different sensors which I thought meant it might be the battery not holding its charge. So I decided to recharge the battery, but all seems to be fine with the battery. And because of the fuel pressure being too high and too low, I thought it was the intank fuel pump, so I had that changed and serviced the car with all the filters and fresh oil, but the problem still persisted. The final straw came as I was returning home on a dark country lane when I was with my wife and daughter. And the car decided to stall suddenly. The initial attempts to restart never worked so I gave the car a 60 second break and then tried again and it restarted but it was in limp mode and again I drove the car back in 2nd and 3rd gear. Thankful that I got home that night, I tried the next morning to restart the car and since then the car won't start now. I have cleaned out the EGR valve, but only had a small amount of deposit inside. However I am still stumped as to what it could be. Could anyone advise me as to what I should do next as I'm originally from Birmingham and have moved up to North Lanarkshire which is pretty much between Glasgow and Edinburgh and I do not know a good mechanic that I could take the car to, hence I am trying to recitfy the problem myself initially. My next point of call is possibly the injectors, MAP sensor or ECM. I would like to keep the car as long as possible, as it has been a great car. After researching online there are so many possibilities as to what it could likely be, so your experience and advice would be very much appreciated. Many Thanks Adam
  19. Hi Everyone, I though I could share this issue on the forum. It is now solved, hopefully someone with similar issues stumbles across and it helps. When buying a used automatic, always check for clunks or harshness in gear changes. I guess this is not news to anyone here. So I did for my V50 D5 Geartronic (2007) and happily drove it without problems for 40 000+ km (now 148000). It started with a thump when going 3-2, but went away (November 2014). Then, whenever the car was well warmed up, stronger thumps. Within a few weeks it evolved to a situation where slowing down in traffic and accelerating back would happen with the 2nd gear disengaged (rev up empty). At this point, no messages on the dashboard, but I had it checked by my Volvo dealer - January 2015. Almost immediate response after an adaptation check : gearbox is about to fail and needs replacement (sorry I do not have the actual codes, but the TCM did register failures to engage a gear). Issue is price... At 5000 euros a new gearbox, I started looking for alternatives. - Flush and replace fluids : yes but too late, if the damage is done, it is just a cost before replacement anyway - Third party refurbisher : there are some options around my place, but it was a 200 km drive, car in the shop for a week or more and overall cost in the near 3000 euros unless "it was something easy". Having said this, the gearbox would be removed, opened, cleaned, maybe declared beyond repair... and limited guarantees about a result - though any repaired gearbox carried a 12 month warranty. I looked around for information on the gearbox, discovered it is a known weakness of the AW55-51 gearbox in Volvos and realized it was too late to change the course of events, with a likely failure of the valve body due to wear. (look for links below) Sooo... After I had to stop the car in the hills on a weekend (2nd gear failed to lock in up hill, so I had to stop, restart 1-2... not funny but luckily no traffic)... I bit the bullet and went for the Volvo reman program, mid March. With a bit of arguing I got a cool 20% off from the dealer (basically taking almost no margin on the parts, and down to their man-hours). I have to say my official Volvo dealer is sweet and nice - for the record, Volvo GEA in Torino. Wow... what a change... smooth, nice, and even a decent increase in fuel economy (0.2 to 0.3 L/100 on average). So it was worth replacing through Volvo, has a 12 month full warranty and some lessons learned (OK, applies to my situation but food for though maybe ?). > Service the gearbox every 60000 km even though Volvo claims it is sealed for life. All other car manufacturers using the same gearbox from Aisin Warner actually do. > If you sit in traffic, the gears most used are 2 and 3. This is where it wears out as it changes gears all the time. Try manually locking the gear if traffic allows > Send a claim to Volvo if your gearbox fails so "early". Asian Warner claims (sorry could not find the link again on their website) that their hardware is designed for 400 000 km. I guess any failure before 200000 km or 10 years is unexpected. > Know your hardware... If you know how it works, you can have interesting discussions with your dealer. See some links below. And a photo from the new gearbox being fitted. Cheers, Julien. From refurbisher Sonnax, troubleshooting and TCM strategies explained : Discussion about adaptive learning (applies to older Volvos using the AW55-50) Adaptation on the V50 D5 is apparently done through the VIDA with the car sitting still.
  20. Hi All, Completely new to this forum, was looking for some help and advice from more experienced and mechanically-minded Volvo owners. I bought a 2007 S60 D5 manual yesterday. It's got 130,000 on the clock, runs smooth and is very tidy in and out. Today a warning message came up: 'engine service required' - gutted as I was really happy with the car! Car went into limp mode every now and again, so I took it into a Volvo specialist. Guy spotted that the swirl flap linkage was broken and said he'd have it replaced in minutes. When he tried to replace it, he said the swirl flap itself has too much 'play' in it and will need replacing. This would involve taking rocker cover off, injectors out, amongst other things - total price would be around £225, but I think that's + VAT Does that sound reasonable? The guy seemed nice but I know nothing about engines! Assuming I'm not being ripped off, what else should I get checked/changed while it's in? The car has a part service history and I want to make sure it's in tip top shape when it comes out. Can anyone recommend what else I should get done? Thanks for your help in advance. Chris