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Volvo D5 Service faults / general errors


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#1 Dacvolvo

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 12:44

Hi Folks

As most of you know, I bought a Volvo S80 D5 (163bhp Euro 3) on a 2003 plate (face lifted model) about 3 weeks ago and it thankfully has a full AA warranty. Since buying it 3 weeks ago, I've experienced a couple of little faults and thought I'd post my finding up here just in case it could help someone else out that was having a problem with their S80, S60 or V70 with the D5 engine.

When I first saw the S80 for sale on a garage forecourt, I examined it and then asked the salesman for a test drive. Everything was fantastic apart from when driving below 30mph. I noticed a slight wave in power. Driving at a steady 25mph, it felt as if the power was being sent to the front wheels in a wave or a pulse - similar to when braking heavy and the ABS kicks in and does the famous pulse/cadence braking and you can feel a judder. Well same type of thing here except I was driving and not touching the break pedal. When driving above 30mph, however, everything was smooth and beautiful.

I told the garage I was interested in the car, but wouldn't touch it unless they were able to fix the fault. They agreed and a few days later they called me to say they'd found the fault - two sticky injectors and the intercooler was gone. These faults were fixed by replacing with genuine Volvo parts and I collected the car a few days later.

As soon as I drove it home on the first night, a warning message saying "High Emissions Service Required". I promptly took the car to Volvomax (My local independent Volvo garage) and Douggie there read the codes - the EGR Valve came back as being at fault and the print out said it was either in the "open" or "closed" position. Douggie reset the codes and cleared the memory. But 3 minutes later, on the way home, the same error message showed up on my dash. Also, a few days later, I noticed that whenever I was accelerating up a hill and the revs went above 3,000 rpm, the message "Engine service required" appeared on the dash and the engine went into Limp mode and switched the turbo off.

I took all this information back to the sales garage and they replaced the fuel filter, removed and cleaned the EGR valve and fitted a brand new genuine Volvo top mount as I'd noticed the one on the engine was knackered. For the first time since I bought the car, the Emissions message did not come on at all. All sorted and still going perfectly to this day. However, the problem of driving the car up a hill whilst accelerating is still there.

I took the car back to the sales garage this morning and their mechanic checked all the hoses, intercooler, electrics, etc and advised that we'd have to get the codes read. He tried his code reader, but for some reason it wouldn't read my car. but we did notice when it was up on the ramp that the front engine mount looked like it had started to perish.

I jumped in the car and drove a few miles to the nearest Volvo dealership - Volvo Motherwell. I sat in an amazing, modern, very stylish waiting room whilst drinking a free hot chocolate and reading the Herald as a gentleman by the name of "Harry" retrieved the fault codes from my car. After about 5 minutes he said the only code it's showing is 6805 (Boost pressure control faulty). He explained that the D5's engine mounts are actually pressurised and part of the vacuum system. Just last week, he'd had a S80 in with the same fault - accelerating up a hill, the engine would go into limp mode and replacing the front engine mount had cured it. Now, I know that an error code of 6805 could indicate a fault on a number of different engine parts, but at this point in time, the engine mount is getting the most attention. I think with the top mount being knackered for so long, the engine's taken some wear out of the front mount, well that's the theory anyways for the time being.

Massive respect to Harry for all his advice and knowledge of Volvos and for not charging me for the codes being read and the hot chocolate :D

I've only just came home and I'll call the sales garage on Monday to book it in with them to get the front engine mount replaced and hopefully from there, everything should be sorted. I'll keep this thread updated. ;)

So just to re-cap, after extensive searching through forums (VPCuk, VOC and T5D5), speaking to Volvo, Volvomax and the sales garage, if you have a Volvo D5 (163Bhp), weak points that cause a lot of hassle are the EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve), intercoolers (At around 100k miles), injectors, fuel filters and engine mounts.

If you have the newer D5 engine with 185Bhp, you can also add the swirl pot (Swirl Chamber operating arm failure) and the DPF (Diesel particulate filter) to the list of things to look out for.

As a side note. I also noticed there wasn't an awful lot of air coming out of my dashboard vents when I bought the car - even with the blower fan on full speed. Turns out the pollen filter was blocked and looked like it hadn't been replaced in years. I removed and replaced it and everything is as it should be.

Also, when the air con on, the passenger side of the car was freezing as it should be, but the driver side was always no where near as cold. One quick trip to Kwik Fit, then confirmed the air con needed a re-charge and an hour later - the car's like an Eskimo's fridge at Christmas time :D
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#2 Lord B

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 13:30

Redbrick knows all about the D5 intercoolers :o, the injectors is a known problem on these cars (and are expensive)  there is a thread somewhere about the engine mounts IIRC it was Robbie who posted about it, it does highlight however the need to read codes properly, and that its only the likes of BSR PPC, VCT and Autodiagnosis that will read all the codes properly.

Always worth adding to list of possible problems to look out for, and nice to hear of a dealer reading codes for free.


I have to be nice, or Mrs Goggins will beat me with a big stick


#3 Dacvolvo

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 14:12

it its only the likes of BSR PPC, VCT and Autodiagnosis that will read all the codes properly.

Always worth adding to list of possible problems to look out for, and nice to hear of a dealer reading codes for free.


Interestingly, Volvomax Glasgow (these guys are good) and the Sales Garage both used "Launch" as their software diagnosis equipment and both correctly read the 6805 code. The sale garage then called Volvo Stirling this morning and asked them for any further advice on this code. Volvo Stirling said that it was a bit of a grey area and that particular code could relate to a number of different components needing attention. So nothing too definitive over the phone. Hence the reason, minutes later, I took the car to Volvo Motherwell who then used the correct software and all they could retrieve was the same 6805 code.

So I've got three Volvo garages and a sales garage confirming that my car is showing a 6805 code, but no-one can give me a positive "This is what's causing it..." :D

But having talked to Harry at Volvo Motherwell and the more I think about it, the more I'm inclined to think it's the front mount. Tiz a strange fault but; I can drive the car all week, on motorways, in town, with the cruise control on or off, etc and she's perfect... until I accelerate up a hill.

Edited by Dacvolvo, 31 July 2010 - 14:13 .

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#4 pgm

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 16:18

clamp the hose going to the front mount and drive up a hill if it doesnt come on then you know its the mount

Paul

#5 GazT4R

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 17:16

Redbrick had the same mount fail on his with the same code.

Daft system but these old donkey engines need extra vibration damping when they rattle up :whistling:

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#6 RobbieH

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 17:17

AFAIK engine mounts on the D5 are a combo of "normal" rubber mounts plus vacuum assisted. The idea is that below 1000rpm the vac assisted ones are "floppy" and help absorb the dieseasel vibes but above 1000rpm they harden up ( :o) . If one leaks it'll give symptoms like you see more so when the engine is under load. Having a crackered engine top mount will allow the engine to try to roam around the engine bay at will and will put additional strain on the lower mounts. TWR (and irf in one of his odd D5 loving moments) suggested looking at getting an additional engine damper and mounting between the left hand (lifting) eye and maybe the LH stay bar mount to try to give some additional support to the engine as it is definitely prone to twisting under the torque load when you boot it. I've just been to bone idle to get round to trying it (plus the engine dampers I've come across are not exactly cheap).


Unfortunately I think I might be joining Redbrick in the tales of woe about i/c's. Messing around the other day I've noted the tell tale oil on the bottom engine tray under the rad pack and you can see the bottom of the i/c bulging at least 1/4" below the straight line formed by the aircon rad just in front . Also got an increasing volume whistle from somewhere.

Not looking too healthy (although I have a feeling the i/c was blown even when I bought the car, it's just slowly been getting worse and I'm learning what to look for) :no:. Got a friend coming round to have a listen and advise. He's previously blown an i/c on a D5 as well so he knows.

Paul's idea is a good one :thumbsup:

Edit thank you for that delightdul description (not :P)

Edited by RobbieH, 31 July 2010 - 17:18 .

siggyv2.gif

Don't let your age define you. It's a number, that's all.

Nasty D5 dieseasel with few twiddly bits from TWR, MTE, IPD and Eibach but 600 miles to a tank ain't to be sniffed at :-)

I would sooner watch Robbie cycling around on his push hog wearing his finest Lycra then attending a 1/4 strip....


#7 pgm

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Posted 31 July 2010 - 18:28

Paul's idea is a good one :thumbsup:



cant take the credit for it :no: as it was the volvo sage Tim who sugested it to me :D

Paul

#8 Dacvolvo

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 20:36

And just to try and help people see what parts can fail, here's a few of them:

Here's my front engine mount (Photo was taking with me standing in front of the car with the bonnet up and me leaning over the grill and looking down).

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You can see on the left where the rubber has started to perish and begun to "frill"...



And here's two photos of my new designed top engine mount :D

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Other culprits are the following two items:

The control valve for the engine mounts on air box (part no. 30611668 approx £30)

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And the turbo control valve / governor located on the front of engine block (part no 30637251 approx £110). Photographed below as it lay on my toolbox...

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And just incase you've got problems trying to locate any of the above parts, here's where they live on the D5 (163Bhp) with the plastic engine cover and the black "L" shaped pipe removed for clarity.

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#9 James D

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 15:53

clamp the hose going to the front mount and drive up a hill if it doesnt come on then you know its the mount

Paul


Hi Paul and all,

I'm new to here but would like to say a big thank you as the advice regarding clamping the vac pipe to front engine mount finally helped me diagnose the fault! The front engine mount must be leaking, as doubling over the rubber pipe to 'kink' it and securing with a tie wrap just before the p clip in front of the engine mount cured the fault and returned full boost from low revs. Also the engine service warning has not come on. The traction light came on though as I'd got so used to over compensating for the lack of low down grunt that when it returned I'd forgotten about the torque!

After countless hours on forums, then having the engine codes read (Mass airflow fault, Turbo boost flow fault, and cruise control (un related I think), I'd performed following checks;

1. Checked for obvious split pipes - all appeared ok
2. Disconnected the engine pad solenoid clipped to airbox, this made no noticeable difference*,
3. Disconnected the turbo control governor behind the black pipe at the top / front of the engine, (obviously needed to remove the large black pipe then the small breather behind it) this DID make a significant difference i.e. There was significantly LESS power as turbo was hardly coming in at all. This told me the turbo control governor was either a. Working or b. partially working
4. Got underneath the car, removed the under cover and had a good look at turbo and pipes, a little oil from bottom pipe coming from turbo which worried me so I disconnect it, it was slightly oily to the touch inside but no dripping etc.
5. Was the clamping of vac pipe as above. Worked! *

* when I say worked I mean full power right from low revs returned. What I did notice though was that the engine felt slightly rough, I could feel it through floor and steering wheel. Not anything as bad as my 1998 cavalier diesel that I once owned, but rougher than normal. This must be because I'd removed the vac supply to the engine mount so it could not soften at low revs as it's designed to do. I'll put up with this in the short term until I can get the front mount changed.

Thanks again fellas.

James

#10 pgm

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 17:00

Your welcome :) but as I said before it the master (Tim Williams) who showed me that trick :lol:

 

Paul



#11 V70D5

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Posted 02 February 2014 - 19:00

Indeed it's a good write up. Google must also see it as 20,400 views isn't bad!
It's big, it's black and it's shiny! :D

#12 James D

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 07:18

Indeed it's a good write up. Google must also see it as 20,400 views isn't bad!


Hi yes I found you on Google - one of he top hits (3rd / 4th) when googling the term 'd5 turbo control valve'

And to correct my previous mistake a huge thanks to Tim Williams and then to you all for creating and excellent write up.

Cheers,

James

#13 V70D5

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 17:49

Good to hear. Welcome along James. :)
It's big, it's black and it's shiny! :D

#14 eaglepete

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Posted 14 February 2014 - 23:59

AFAIK engine mounts on the D5 are a combo of "normal" rubber mounts plus vacuum assisted. The idea is that below 1000rpm the vac assisted ones are "floppy" and help absorb the dieseasel vibes but above 1000rpm they harden up ( ohmy.gif) . If one leaks it'll give symptoms like you see more so when the engine is under load. Having a crackered engine top mount will allow the engine to try to roam around the engine bay at will and will put additional strain on the lower mounts. TWR (and irf in one of his odd D5 loving moments) suggested looking at getting an additional engine damper and mounting between the left hand (lifting) eye and maybe the LH stay bar mount to try to give some additional support to the engine as it is definitely prone to twisting under the torque load when you boot it. I've just been to bone idle to get round to trying it (plus the engine dampers I've come across are not exactly cheap).


Unfortunately I think I might be joining Redbrick in the tales of woe about i/c's. Messing around the other day I've noted the tell tale oil on the bottom engine tray under the rad pack and you can see the bottom of the i/c bulging at least 1/4" below the straight line formed by the aircon rad just in front . Also got an increasing volume whistle from somewhere.

Not looking too healthy (although I have a feeling the i/c was blown even when I bought the car, it's just slowly been getting worse and I'm learning what to look for) no.gif. Got a friend coming round to have a listen and advise. He's previously blown an i/c on a D5 as well so he knows.

Paul's idea is a good one thumbsup.gif

Edit thank you for that delightdul description (not tongue.gif)


I'm looking to buy a manual 185 xc90 but one of the advisories on mot is an oil leak - could this be i/c ?

#15 Redbrick

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 01:40

They do weep a bit of oil when split, you need to get a more definative description of where the oil is coming from.  Oil pipes to turbo, filler cap seal, gear box... all can leak oil but all different problems.  Oil does like to track which can make it hard to figure out sometimes.


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#16 tingy

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 06:55

as above, i would guess it has a plastic undertray covering the engine ul need to get under it with this removed and see whats leaking i also think the engine mounts can leak oil when failed so plenty of culprits to check out


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#17 eaglepete

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Posted 15 February 2014 - 17:44

Seller is along way from me so not feasible to go & check :-( was advisory so couldn't be too bad surely ? Worth taking a chance ??

#18 Jassas

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 13:31

I'm so glad I found this topic!!!

And what an informative topic it is......not to techy and easily understandable....:-)

I have a very smilier problem with my mother in laws v70 d5 2003... Approx. miles-130,000

When I got the car from her the engine service required was displayed, along with a flashing skid pan light and abs light.

Car would drive in limp mode but then totally loose power intermittently....

This was an abs sensor in near side front which when replaced cleared the total loss of power fault.

Car was then just showing the yellow triangle and service required. Although the mother inlay did say she had also seen 'high emissions' displayed.

I've a feeling she'd been driving the car in limp mode for around 6weeks....( don't even go there!)

A mechanic friend checked all the vac pipes and put a vacuum tester on it.
( he did read codes on his diagnostic which pointed to turbo governer or engine mount control valve being the likely culprit)


There was leakage from a few of the joints where the pipes terminated or were plugged onto things.

He put mini tie wraps on them all and checked vac again...... This time no loss of pressure.

Still no good....'engine service reauired' still displayed and car would not boost with revs not going over 2500.

So we decided the cheapest option would be to change the EMCV which didn't make a difference.

So we bit the bullet and changed the Turbo governor valve............which yet again didn't make a difference.

Read codes again and an egr fault came up.....ahhh ha we thought, this is it!

Took off the egr valve and it was completely blocked up with carbon.....one of the pipes was two thirds blocked!!
and it looked like the electrical part of the valve was knackered.

I sourced a used but good condition working egr from a reputable breaker ( like new) and fitted this thinking this would be the end of our problems....

But guess what?...........no such luck!

The car has since been to an electrical specialist who has checked all the wiring for a fault as there is a place where the loom is known to rub and cause a fault. Still no luck

And yes he has checked the turbo which turns freely and smooth.

The Egr is not operating at all.........the voltage that it is getting is only around 3volts which is why the electrical guys have had a look.

Would it be possible that a driving the car for such a long period in limp mode with the egr clogged has damaged the ECU??....

I'm thinking of sending the ECU off to a company who will check it for faults and only charge 45pound if it's not faulty and if it is rebuild it for 250 with a full guarantee.

Oh and just to add, we did just change the fuel filter in the back arch as this has been known to cause faults but to no avail.

Not sure where to go with this now as my mother in law can't afford to hand it over to Volvo with a blank cheque book!

#19 Jassas

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 13:36

Just to add....
The car is now driving without boost but not showing the yellow triangle light.

It is displaying the engine service required message.

The mechanic did try and clear this message by doing the usual reset instructions but it would not clear the message........

Could it be that the DPF is full and needs a forced regeneration?.....which in turn has caused the ecu to shut power to the egr?

I'm at my wits end!!

#20 BlackBeast

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Posted 16 March 2014 - 17:16

All this code reading, is vida or dice being used?
Track = Mazda Eunos Runabout = VW Lupo Everything else = Volvo V70 diseasel




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