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Wobbly Dave

Betsy - the final chapter.

191 posts in this topic

Oh you lucky boy.  Those brakes are famous you know, they came from the bestist S70 that there ever was  :lolbang:   And I got them from Elliot!  They were something like £2500 back in the day, and that was when AP's were cheaper than they are now.  So they were an expensive option at one point.

 

When I ran them on the S70, they were great.  I did a handful of track days, including a Ring trip on them until the discs finally died, and that was because they cracked - fuck off drilled discs, no matter what anyone says!

 

With the original WP Pro discs & pads they worked great, a massive improvement over 302's, which after hard track use I was always writing off front discs.  The WP Pro's would withstand 20, 30 minute sessions with no issue.  

 

When I wrote the discs off, I got rid, and sold them to Shem.  The reason being that discs and pads were horrendously priced.  After Shem took them, he managed to persuade some XC90 discs in there.  But I was never convinced that made for a good set up, as, IIRC, there isn't a huge amount of contact between the pad and disc using them this way.  But who knows???

 

Did Shem give you the original bell housing's as well?  If so, maybe try and find out the original disc size and see if Reyland can supply discs.

 

Greg is right, buy cheap, pay twice i'm afraid!  Once you get them refurb'd, which a proper job will be £250 ish (more if you want a rebuild), new discs, new pads, etc...  For something that, apart from being bling, I'd be a bit dubious about the performance.  You just have well invested in a set of AP's (which will fit behind 7.5j comets - no need to spend money on new wheels), or a decent set of second hand porsche calipers, S60R discs, etc...

 

Good luck with it.

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I'd advise against using spacers on the front for your application and defiantly not 10mm plus ones. wider wheels with a bigger offset would be more suitable.

 

The WP calipers can fit behind standard wheels IF mounted on bells with a suitable offset. 

 

It would more than likely be prohibitively expensive if paying for the work but if I were to use the WP calipers I would use 17' Pegs and bells with a deep offset and Reyland  343mm discs. Due to the shallow pad depth you can get the disc in past the bottom ball joint meaning that the caliper doesn't protrude very far past the hub. That way almost all 18' will also fit.

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I didn't get the bells - just the carriers, lines, calipers and the XC90 disks. I may shelve this development and return to it later.

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It was bleedin' cawd last night but with the moon and the stars overhead I cracked on regardless. The block is pretty much stripped (I gave up when it got to 1:30am). Separation was not easy as I was trying to keep both half shafts in the gearbox with the rear gear box engine mount still bolted on. Simply not possible I found and I had to relent and take the long half shaft out - and all for 3 pound bolts in the hubs (my mind is funny that way).

Anyway it is split now (took ages on my own) & just have the clutch & flywheel to remove.

There has to be an easy way to mate & unmate the gearbox right?

I am probably going to leave the sump on and let someone else deal with the contaminated oil/grey crap in there.

Then I think I need to finally decide who to use to do the engineering work.

On a less depressing note I have bought the ATP housing & ultimate collector with internal W/G for the GTX, AEM V2 kit for water/meth injection, lightened flywheel from Kalmar Union. I will need a new friction plate as the sachs one has no damper springs.

I also think this time I will get the engineers to tap my turbo return in the sump so I can use flexible return.

Going to get my cleaning on - with all the bits that came off the block. So tonnes to do.

Tips on remating gearboxes on your own would be appreciated.

post-11242-0-64608300-1456313927_thumb.jpg

Edited by Wobbly Dave

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The engine and box must be in line before separating at all. Ideally both driveshafts removed. You will of almost certainly bent the clutch disc how you removed it, you won't of heard that being damaged but if you could hear the clutch fingers dragging on the input shaft you will of bent them, get them checked.

Put a block of wood under the sump if you're going to be putting in on the subframe before refitting. Check that you didn't damage the crank angle sensor as the ones with the plastic mount are very brittle. If you suspect you may of impacted the sensor or it's mount you ought to change them. They can be fitted with the box bolted on the engine.

You could of PMd me and I would of advised and then you might of been done by 1.25AM.

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thanks Tim. I removed the crank sensor before starting, so it was never at risk.

 

Its my own stupid fault as this is the first time I've tried to do it without removing the half shafts. Oh well. Omlettes & eggs.

 

I did support the bell housing and tried as best I could to keep everything lined up. I will seek help in future.

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I was worried so I been outside - clutch fingers are fine.

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I was worried so I been outside - clutch fingers are fine.

Good, if you have the engine supported under the sump with the front engine mount undone the gearbox will go on easily IF the clutch is aligned correctly.

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I think I was trying to be unnecessarily cheeky trying to leave the half shafts in place. It doesn't work.

 

Goodies turned up today. I need a WMI tank Tim - so whenever you are ready - send me a PP link or direct bank details & I will ping you the dosh. Can you also dig out the details for the relevant recommended S60R headgasket? namely the part no.

 

 

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The pump feels very solid and well put together. Any tips on where best to mount it? 2016-02-25%2015.40.39%202_zpsr1lq3eu3.jp

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I'll get a tank made and send you details. The wiring is very easy, you can join your two lives together and join your two cables for the level sensor to each other so you don't get a fault code for low fluid level. Trust me you don't want a level sensor, well definitely not one for a Narrow Boat. 

 

Pump location is down to flame or not to flame...  If you mount it in the engine bay it will be very hard to get it to flame on gear changes even when the EGTs are high and if you stupidly run out of methanol it will be slightly harder to prime, people that tend to run out of fuel will be too stupid to press the "Test" button in any case.

 

If one is stupid then it's best to not venture out of doors but if one does crawling is far safer, why am I bothering... Stupid people never take notice anyway!

 

If you find after fitting it it stops working even with fluid in the tank check for wood pulp in the tank, pump and nozzle. If that's the case you are a tight stupid person that spend a lot of money on a good kit and then bought doggy methanol from Taliban Tom. Don't do that.

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I was planning to use the loom that supplies the normal petrol pump, in that way it will work at the same time as the DW300 and run the fluid pipe along or near the same run as the fuel line.

 

I am mystified by the comment about level sensor? Is this some kind of T5D5 in-joke? Sorry you lost me a bit.

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:lol: yes its an in joke not aimed at you dont worry about it

Personally i wouldnt run it off a vital circuit as if for any reason the pump blows the fuse the car will also stop iirc the pump comes with a shed load of loom so you can run it from pretty much anywhere

Having said that i dont know where mine gets its 12v from but the pump is mounted in the boot behind the boot wall pannel out of sight and corrosion if theres a enough space behind the C70 boot liner then id go for that again

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You will want to connect IIRC the brown and the white wires for the level sensor together to stop the control unit flashing a fault code.

Don't take a feed off the fuel pump wiring as you already will have a decent voltage drop on that curcuit and as said a fault with your WI could leave you stranded. Pinching a feed off the sunroof ect if you don't have one is a better idea. You should have a yellow connector above your accelerator pedal that isn't used and the switched live off that is fine for over 30A.

The tongue in cheek comments were observations from how customers have managed to screw it up. Not you, you wouldn't do that because you listen.

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I getcha - I don't have a sunroof therefore I can use the unused existing loom. I will check my wiring diagrams for details.

 

As for listening - absolutely. No more dumb mistakes this time.

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The BBK I bought means that I may have to increase my wheel size. I have acquired some Federal RSR in 18"

Just wondered what you thought of these Y spoke alloys? I would replace the tragic wheel centres but I thought these had an element of polestar about them??

 

 

post-11242-0-54120200-1459351505_thumb.jpg

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personally i like them like a larger version of the Triton

 

worth checking they will definatly clear your BBK before purchasing though

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A year has passed and I am in the process of fitting the AEM kit. I have run the pipework up to the engine bay. I ran it out through the OS rear corner and it follows the fuel lines, under the O/S side of the steering rack and around the front roughly following the fuel line return, up between the bottom coolant pipe. The new DO88.se intercooler pipe comes with a spur ready welded on but when I looked it doesn't tapped for the 1/8 NSP fitting for the nozzle. I may cut this short and tap it myself or given the fact that the 1/4 inch WMI feed pipe is coming from underneath - ignore it and just drill and tap my own hole so that I am not cutting back at such a short angle or buy a right angle quarter inch fitting. I haven't figured that out yet. I am worried about the wall thickness with a new hole and whether or not the stem is big enough to take the tap. On measuring it was quite close. I may just cut and grind a flat spot where it joins the tube - as it needs to be nice and air-tight.

Some thoughts on prior installs would be good - but here is where I am at the moment with the Timmy tank and AEM pump -and inline filter - it will disappear behind the wall carpet once done.

The outflow for the tank is at almost dead to rear -  to allow the feed tube to pass up and not be caught by the spare tyre - though I later realised this might not be 100% to being dead rear - I think it is good enough. It is now rivnutted in place.

I assume Tim that the extra hole on the tank is for the level sensor - but I am waiting on your confirmation on what to use as the instructions above are unclear to me.

I plan to power the pump from the spare looms (which I assume are for a tow bar??) - but I need to investigate the voltages and switching associated with them or revert to sunroof/spare cabin looms upfront.

 

WMI_Tank.jpg

WMI_pump.jpg

Edited by Wobbly Dave

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Glad to hear things are moving along!

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The 1/8th NPT hole in the top of the tank is for the breather, without it you won't get any fluid out of the tank. I run them from there under the tire and up the wheel well on the drivers side and out of the boot floor so it doesn't vent in the car. 

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In that case I will get some more 1/4 inch tube and follow the feed line and make another hole, so it can vent/breath behind the rear wheel arch liner.

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On 2/16/2016 at 8:26 PM, Tim Williams said:

I'd advise against using spacers on the front for your application and defiantly not 10mm plus ones. wider wheels with a bigger offset would be more suitable.

 

The WP calipers can fit behind standard wheels IF mounted on bells with a suitable offset. 

 

It would more than likely be prohibitively expensive if paying for the work but if I were to use the WP calipers I would use 17' Pegs and bells with a deep offset and Reyland  343mm discs. Due to the shallow pad depth you can get the disc in past the bottom ball joint meaning that the caliper doesn't protrude very far past the hub. That way almost all 18' will also fit.

There was no way that the WP's were going to fit behind either the canistos or the comets - both which have near identical spoke shapes. I bought some 20mm H&R spacers and longer wheel bolts. I had a bit of a mare with the carriers. The lumps of pig iron supplied had different profiles. The trial fit on the OS went on nice and easy - no dramas. The goodridge lines were a smidge too short on full lock so I replaced them with the HEL lines that came with the WPs. I swapped of the rubber brake line grommets to make sure they didn't rub. The NS carrier was a nightmare and was catching with the same amount of spacing and was duly administered a good lashing with the angle grinder, so the inside of the bell didn't catch.

2016-02-14 16.52.11.jpg

 

2016-02-14 16.51.48.jpg

Edited by Wobbly Dave

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I choose yellow caliper paint which I regret now because it is chippy as fuck even after baking it with lacquer.

2 pac would have been a better choice.

The clearance with the 20mm H&R is 16mm - so I have duly ordered 10mm to reduce the unnecessary clearance.

 

Volvo_WPPRO_6pot_refurb_small_res.jpg

WP BBK under canistos 2 small_res.jpg

Edited by Wobbly Dave

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Ah dependable canistos always able to just squeeze over a calliper they probably shouldnt :lol:

A44F76C8-0C0E-40E0-B940-C815722B8BDC_zps

 

C6298123-E5DB-4339-BBF9-4A5A1D0D0D90_zps

 

 

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