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Wobbly Dave

Betsy - the final chapter.

191 posts in this topic

I could technically go to just a 5mm spacer but that would only leave 1.5 mm - which is a smidge to tight for my liking.

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I will fit 18s as well but I have no budget currently for alloys. All the money will be going on funing the tucker.

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9 hours ago, Wobbly Dave said:

I will fit 18s as well but I have no budget currently for alloys. All the money will be going on funing the tucker.

Just don't let Shem map it! he melts rings for fun:sos:

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Stainless steel is not easy to work with and made a right mess of my new Ti covered step cutter. I've had to buy a special jobber drill bit to get the 11/32 hole cut for the 1/8 NSP tap. In the end it did yield but the attrition rate of drill bits was higher than expected, as has the time to complete it. There was little left of the original t-piece but what wall/weld left did provide enough purchase to allow the nozzle to sit true relative to the midline and vertical, even if the nozzle pertrudes a bit further in the pipe than directed in the instructions. In hindsight I would have given the DO88 pipework a miss and just had my own top pipe fabbed up. Tapping my home made plastic pipe would have been childsplay.

I have finished the tank breather - photos will follow and then the last job is to complete the wiring, plug in the controller and test the system. At least with all my intercooler pipework finished I can start the engine again.

2017-03-07 13.27.11.jpg

2017-03-07 13.44.06.jpg

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Lost 2 hours when the loom on the back of the intake temp sensor snapped off in the back of the plug during the pipe re-install - GRRR!

Speaking of which - does anyone have a spare section of MAF sensor loom - my plug is severely knackered and one of the wires just gave out...

AEM nozzle final.jpg

broken MAF loom.jpg

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WMI is all plumbed and wired in. Circuit looks good though I am going to test pump some H2O before getting the methanol. I wired mine of the spare loom above the accelerator pedal as Tim recommended. Just a thought though. Do any of you bother with a separate arming switch? Currently the arming switch is the ignition key (switched 12V supply). I can't really think of a use case where I wouldn't want the WMI to be available when the engine was running.

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It might be handy to have a switch near the nozzle in the engine bay to test and make sure the pump is working as no doubt you will be joining the club of

 

"is the meth working?"

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6 hours ago, tingy said:

It might be handy to have a switch near the nozzle in the engine bay to test and make sure the pump is working as no doubt you will be joining the club of

 

"is the meth working?"

The controller has a test button. 

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By the controller i assume you mean the bit in my drivers foot well that adjusts the quantity and cut in point if so thats not exactly convenient for testing without an assistant

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I put the controller (with the test button) into the glovebox - so I can access the button to prime the system, but keep it out of harms way. I may yet install a 90 degree bracket to secure it to. Going to wrap the wires in a plastic sheath.

 

 

wmi_controller_small.jpg

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On 3/22/2017 at 8:58 PM, tingy said:

By the controller i assume you mean the bit in my drivers foot well that adjusts the quantity and cut in point if so thats not exactly convenient for testing without an assistant

I press the button and see if the AFR drops.

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What ratios of water meth are you lot running?

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The last lot of meth i got was only 99.85% pure so i run 0.15% something else

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