yosser

2005 S60R

247 posts in this topic

I've never bothered with a project thread before, probably because I didn't really want to be reminded how much time and money I spend on old cars, but that changes today...

 

Last week I bought a 2005, 55 plate, 06 model S60R 6 speed manual in Sonic blue. It's a one doctor owner car with full main dealer history, mileage just under 118k at time of purchase. I know doctor owned S60R's are maybe not a good thing... ;)

 

It came up on ebay and was pretty local to me so I took it as a sign that it was meant to be. I've seen the car many times going about Edinburgh, although I don't know the owner. It was traded in to the main dealer against a brand new XC70 and I bought it via an independent trader with contacts at Murray Volvo.

 

It won't be on the road for a week or two while I juggle number plates and insurance policies, but that'll give me time to give it the once over.

 

I didn't inspect it as well as I should have before purchase, but it felt right. I know that isn't scientific, but I had a fair degree of faith that it would be fine. The fact there are service and parts bills for the best part of £2k this year alone showed me that it was still being looked after. The tyres are literally brand new, the timing belt was done in February, etc. etc.  I did inspect it and drive it, and I did speak to Tim about a couple of points.

 

I haven't taken any of my own pictures but the ones from the ebay ad are below:

 

ebay9_zpse7b0fe24.jpg

 

ebay10_zpsf4c05eec.jpg

 

ebay11_zps207b69ff.jpg

 

ebay8_zps925f696e.jpg

 

ebay6_zps05268fd8.jpg

 

ebay7_zpsaf46403f.jpg

 

ebay2_zpsa49f0eb6.jpg

 

ebay5_zps44cd8644.jpg

 

ebay1_zpsb7fece2a.jpg

 

ebay12_zps7684f2f0.jpg

 

ebay4_zps53e6c85d.jpg

 

ebay3_zpse67bd8f2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like you have yourself a fine motor.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So yesterday I managed to get a few hours under and around the car.

 

It looks to be pretty good, but there is already a to do list emerging.

 

I found both front driveshaft bolts to be loose. I've torqued them appropriately so hopefully that's what was causing the clunking it exhibited. Can anyone advise if it's ok to threadlock these?

 

I removed the foam sock from the air filter and also noticed that the maf to turbo intake pipe clamp was totally loose. Tightened that.

 

Checked for codes (nothing important found), cleared codes (nothing retuned yet), turned off DRL's.

 

Swapped out the sidelight bulbs for a set of LED ones I had in stock. Looks better alongside the HID dipped beam IMO. Straigtened out the OSF foglight bracket.

 

Popped a piece of the roof trim back in. It looked damaged it was sitting up so much, turns out it was just a clip out of place.

 

The rear screen seemed to be loathe to demist so I removed the C pillar trims to check for voltage and continuity. It all checked out fine, so maybe the car is just suffering from being damp sitting about doing nothing for the last 2 months.

 

The exhaust looks to be the original and nearing the end of it's life, if things work out I'll hopefully take Chris's ferritta. I removed the 'exhaust bracket of death' - never heard of that until I read about in on Swedespeed the other day.

 

There are signs of oil leaks/spills on the underside so I've cleaned that up and will keep an eye on things.

 

All 4 wheels turn with the car running in gear, so the AWD seems ok.

 

No excess pressure in the cooling system and no overheating after a very long idle, so hopefully the liners are intact. I will get down to Tim for it to be shimmed as a matter of urgency.

 

The over the engine pipe is the plastic type and one of it's mounts is broken. I think this is pretty common, but is there any point trying to repair it? I'm thinking maybe a 2 part epoxy putty or resin. It'll have to be repainted silver too - the under bonnet picture from the advert was touched up, it has worn from contact with the bonnet sound deadening. Does the pipe from later T5's fit?

 

The fuel filter looks like it's not been off for a while, no surprise there for a full dealer history car....

 

So, initial to do:

 

Fuel filter

Boost control solenoid

Fit subframe bush inserts

Repair/repaint over engine boost pipe

 

Followed by:

 

Get it shimmed

Exhaust

Injectors cleaned? - pity Jimathan isn't still on the go

 

& probably loads more :D

Edited by yosser

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

loverly looking motor that :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice car, the over engine pipe has the N/S bracket welded in the wrong place and the first bend is slightly the wrong angle. If you repair the pipe and leave out the bolt for that fixing it will be fine. I have a black plastic 2.4 T5 one in stock if you need it, they are exactly the same, (except for about £100!) appart from colour.

Whilst looking at hoses have a look at the intercooler inlet hose as they break down and ooze goo on their underside.

If playing with Vida have a look at cam timing, if the adaption is more than 6 degrees the timing ought to be mechanically altered. Ignition timing at idle with no engine load should be 8-14 degrees. If it's a - value you will have an air leak after the throttle plate.

It's fine to thread lock the driveshaft bolts, I think that will of been the cause of the noise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice car Nick and a lovely colour. Does it fall into the cheaper road tax band? Pm on the way

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice car Nick and a lovely colour. Does it fall into the cheaper road tax band? Pm on the way

 

Thanks Dave. It does just sneak into the lower tax band :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice car, the over engine pipe has the N/S bracket welded in the wrong place and the first bend is slightly the wrong angle. If you repair the pipe and leave out the bolt for that fixing it will be fine. I have a black plastic 2.4 T5 one in stock if you need it, they are exactly the same, (except for about £100!) appart from colour.

Whilst looking at hoses have a look at the intercooler inlet hose as they break down and ooze goo on their underside.

If playing with Vida have a look at cam timing, if the adaption is more than 6 degrees the timing ought to be mechanically altered. Ignition timing at idle with no engine load should be 8-14 degrees. If it's a - value you will have an air leak after the throttle plate.

It's fine to thread lock the driveshaft bolts, I think that will of been the cause of the noise.

 

Thanks Tim.

 

The pipe does not appear to be split or cracked at all, just the little bracket has detached. I'll leave it be, but I will take a look at the inlet hose as advised.

 

I'll also threadlock the driveshaft bolts and re-torque them, hopefully that was the source of the noise. The nearside in particular came out with virtually no effort.

 

I'll also check the cam and ignition timing and report back in due course.

 

When I have the car on the road I'll make arrangements to come to you for precautionary works.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice Nick, VERY nice! :D Love the interior option on it as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice looking car you have there,best colour.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice looking car you have there,best colour.

Agreed, shame its not an estate IMO but it definitely has the right gearstick!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had this made up when I removed my exhaust bracket. 6mm stainless rope.

6F263D3C-0053-4F6F-A155-A3BE7C7B5425-130

Edited by Harvey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If its the bracket i think it is (the one that falls apart) you know volvo do a proper bracket for that

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had this made up when I removed my exhaust bracket. 6mm stainless rope.

6F263D3C-0053-4F6F-A155-A3BE7C7B5425-130

Nice, very nice.

I like the look of that but I'm reminded too much of arresting gear on a carrier. Wouldn't want a rapid deceleration!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had this made up when I removed my exhaust bracket. 6mm stainless rope.

If its the bracket i think it is (the one that falls apart) you know volvo do a proper bracket for that

I think he's on about the bracket that goes under the front to rear drive shaft. The one that when hanked, will push up the drive shaft and... Big bill time! Not the rear exhaust hanger bracket. I think...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah then not the bracket im thinking of

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think he's on about the bracket that goes under the front to rear drive shaft. The one that when hanked, will push up the drive shaft and... Big bill time! Not the rear exhaust hanger bracket. I think...

Yes the one very near the centre exhaust box,my bracket was bent out of shape when I got the car.

A0CCA414-D1E2-420E-B28C-17CF0178F110-130

Yes if you hit it hard it bents hits the exhaust then centre prop = £1400 bill.

Did read the bracket was to keep the exhaust & prop in place if in a big shunt so best if something is fitted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On my list of parts to order from frf is a new bcs. I guess the one on the car is the original and should probably be replaced.

However, it occurs to me that I have a barely used ard tcv lying about that I briefly used on the S70R.

I understand that there isn't really a performance benefit over the stock valve, but would I be as well to use the ard one at no cost rather than shell out for a new Volvo one?

It pains me to use anything ard, but my tight Scots git genes are struggling with this :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes if you hit it hard it bents hits the exhaust then centre prop = £1400 bill.

Did read the bracket was to keep the exhaust & prop in place if in a big shunt so best if something is fitted.

That sounds right. I might look at using some nylon webbing or similar.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never bothered with a project thread before, probably because I didn't really want to be reminded how much time and money I spend on old cars, but that changes today...

 

Last week I bought a 2005, 55 plate, 06 model S60R 6 speed manual in Sonic blue. It's a one doctor owner car with full main dealer history, mileage just under 118k at time of purchase. I know doctor owned S60R's are maybe not a good thing... ;)

 

It came up on ebay and was pretty local to me so I took it as a sign that it was meant to be. I've seen the car many times going about Edinburgh, although I don't know the owner. It was traded in to the main dealer against a brand new XC70 and I bought it via an independent trader with contacts at Murray Volvo.

 

It won't be on the road for a week or two while I juggle number plates and insurance policies, but that'll give me time to give it the once over.

 

I didn't inspect it as well as I should have before purchase, but it felt right. I know that isn't scientific, but I had a fair degree of faith that it would be fine. The fact there are service and parts bills for the best part of £2k this year alone showed me that it was still being looked after. The tyres are literally brand new, the timing belt was done in February, etc. etc.  I did inspect it and drive it, and I did speak to Tim about a couple of points.

 

I haven't taken any of my own pictures but the ones from the ebay ad are below:

 

ebay9_zpse7b0fe24.jpg

 

ebay10_zpsf4c05eec.jpg

 

ebay11_zps207b69ff.jpg

 

ebay8_zps925f696e.jpg

 

ebay6_zps05268fd8.jpg

 

ebay7_zpsaf46403f.jpg

 

ebay2_zpsa49f0eb6.jpg

 

ebay5_zps44cd8644.jpg

 

ebay1_zpsb7fece2a.jpg

 

ebay12_zps7684f2f0.jpg

 

ebay4_zps53e6c85d.jpg

 

ebay3_zpse67bd8f2.jpg

 

 

Very nice.  With those miles the injectors will probably not be gummed up like me (fubar at 22k). Whats the sticker on the airbox?

 

Very clean engine bay, it looks like some of the piping has been polished, lol.

 

I guess the shocks will need done?  Fronts are cheap on amazon atm.

 

GWE will build you a OTE pipe if you ask him nicely.  Otherwise the T5 is black and is the same but I guess will also fail?

 

Change vac pipes, check actuator, tcv, fuel filter, plugs, all pop to mind as well as the shimming.  I'd recommend OE TCV.  I tried a mac and it wasn't great.  Local ish, sitech racing might be worth a call, they do ST's all the time like Tim, LOL :) ?

 

It occurred to me that it's a solenoid and as such shouldn't really be ran at 100% duty for so long, perhaps the reason why they fail a lot on mapped cars?  

 

Ignition timing at idle is something that I have been messing with all day today.  Mine is over 20 degrees when warm at present have been trying to fanny on with a different injector calibration approach.

 

Boost gauge I guess too, if you intend on mapping it at some point.  Or just keep it standard like me 4 years ago ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The sticker on the airbox is just a cambelt reminder, that was done in February.

I'll check the paperwork again, but all the shocks have been replaced at least once. I'm sure it's even had one this year.

Still in two minds whether to buy a new stock bcs or go with the ard that's sitting here, I'll maybe stick it on in the short term.

I'm aware of Sitech and they are pretty handy, that said, I'm still inclined to have Tim look at it. He's been good to me and I trust him, that's worth a few hours drive.

Not sure about the ote pipe yet, it's not cracked so I may just paint it and leave it. A complete replacement pipe set will probably be on the cards at some point though.

I'm going to try to keep it reasonably standard, nothing daft like yours!

It's a slippery slope though....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The problem with the P2 R's IMO is that even though they are great, when driving them you feel they could be SO much better than they are 'out of the box'. I now understand why folk said I'd want to mod mine. We'll see how long you can you resist.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The sticker on the airbox is just a cambelt reminder, that was done in February.

I'll check the paperwork again, but all the shocks have been replaced at least once. I'm sure it's even had one this year.

Still in two minds whether to buy a new stock bcs or go with the ard that's sitting here, I'll maybe stick it on in the short term.

I'm aware of Sitech and they are pretty handy, that said, I'm still inclined to have Tim look at it. He's been good to me and I trust him, that's worth a few hours drive.

Not sure about the ote pipe yet, it's not cracked so I may just paint it and leave it. A complete replacement pipe set will probably be on the cards at some point though.

I'm going to try to keep it reasonably standard, nothing daft like yours!

It's a slippery slope though....

 

The sticker on the airbox is just a cambelt reminder, that was done in February.

I'll check the paperwork again, but all the shocks have been replaced at least once. I'm sure it's even had one this year.

Still in two minds whether to buy a new stock bcs or go with the ard that's sitting here, I'll maybe stick it on in the short term.

I'm aware of Sitech and they are pretty handy, that said, I'm still inclined to have Tim look at it. He's been good to me and I trust him, that's worth a few hours drive.

Not sure about the ote pipe yet, it's not cracked so I may just paint it and leave it. A complete replacement pipe set will probably be on the cards at some point though.

I'm going to try to keep it reasonably standard, nothing daft like yours!

It's a slippery slope though....

 

Couldn't agree more re Tim.  Mine was staying standard iirc? :lol:

 

The problem with the P2 R's IMO is that even though they are great, when driving them you feel they could be SO much better than they are 'out of the box'. I now understand why folk said I'd want to mod mine. We'll see how long you can you resist.

 

New brakes and a remap and ARB's turns them in-to a beast.  I remember before I fitted my new turbo I ran and logged the stock map for a week.  Maaaan it was so slowwwwww.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

It occurred to me that it's a solenoid and as such shouldn't really be ran at 100% duty for so long, perhaps the reason why they fail a lot on mapped cars?  

 

 

 

That only depends on drive current and load.

 

A correctly implemented solenoid can run at "full on" for years and years.

 

We use them in moveable rigging applications where they MUST fail safe so they are held open by current when in use and if the supply fails they automatically slam shut with the force of the spring. Some have been fine for 15 years or more.

 

Rapid cycling in a PWM kind of action is far more likely to mechanically wear out such a component than sitting full on as long as the full-on current is within the long term design limits of the device.

 

So it would depend on whether the drive current is within the long term thermal limits of the coil and housing or not.

 

That could be something worth looking at if failures are so common.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now