sc77

58 reg 260bhp T5 for £900 ? Yes ill try a bit of that !!

41 posts in this topic

HI all,

 

  So its ex police with 220k on the clock and after 2 weeks and 1000+ motorway miles I'm getting 23mpg?  is this real life or have i a problem somewhere?

 

Hope its just me getting carried away  !

 

Gonna start with some new drilled/vented disks n pads and take it from there, maybe a remap after? seem like a plan?

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Hi and welcome.

 

I think you must have a problem.  I have a 2006 260bhp T5 with 177K.  The car has been modified a number of years ago with the MTE remap, large intercooler etc etc.  I believe it is putting out about 300 to 330 bhp.  If driven on motorways at a steady speed then I would expect in the area of 34 to 37 mpg.  In a mixture of all sorts of driving then about 31.

Much of it relates to how you drive but yours does seem very low.  I also have a S80 V8  4.4 litre and average about the same as your T5.

Time for a check up I would suggest.

 

Best of luck

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As mentioned above, unless you've been hoofing it that's terrible fuel consumption.  A stage 0 tune is a good place to start;

oil, oil filter, air filter, Volvo spark plugs, coolant, boost control solenoid, ignition coil inspection/test, crankcase ventilation, boost hoses.  You will want to check the turbo is hitting peak boost and that the waste gate is not slack and opening at the correct pressure.  Also check the maf value isn't low.

A remap without the above is pointless, in my opinion.

As for braking upgrades, unless you're buying something spectacular like a an expensive AP or Brembo kit then don't bother with the usual tat like Black Diamond, EBC drilled discs and 'crap stuff' pads.  They are poor quality and rubbish.  A seriously positive step up in braking that works and is tried and tested is;

OEM brake discs : (Volvo see FRF Volvo in our traders section for a discount).  I've used Pagid  OEM spec discs on the S70R and C70 without issue.

Ferodo DS2500 brake pads or the Carbo Tech equivalent (XP8 or XP10 I think).  Not cheap but they do the business like nothing else!

MOTUL RBF600 brake fluid.

Alternatively you could ask on the the forum if there is an S60/V70R set up going. 

Edited by DSK

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thanks 

 

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Unless your driving everywhere in 3rd gear then you definitely have a issue. As above -  give it a full service with nobs on & a good going over with Vida........or do what the rest of us do:

Take it to Tim so he can drip scorn on your latest purchase before making it as good as new faster that you can say " how far to Coalville?"

I've got a V70 2.4 T5 6 speed manual and mixed motorway/urban get just on 30mpg over a full tank of fuel. Wafting long range on a motorway will see close to 40mpg. I'm not easy on the loud pedal either. So I'd say you might have grabbed a bargain at £900 but think you'll need to spend a few quid to get it just right!! Good luck & keep us posted.

Cheers, Morgan

 

 

 

 

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  Since posting I've found the brakes catching on the disc on the front drivers side so obv this is going to reduce the mpg.

   I've had an email from the shop im buying the discs and pads from asking for which of the 3 options for my car is the size disc (316mm it turns out) and then another email from them which of the 2 brake pad options i have? i cant seem to be able to get the right measurement without taking the wheel off and so going to do that this weekend .

  Im not happy with the water expansion tank turning grey coloured and feeling a bit greasy when i dip my fingers in.   it seems to that the extra oil I'm having to top up with (3 x 1ltr top up in last week or so)  is getting into the water system so thats a bit gutting.  Think I've been sold a bit of a dog tbh as it needed 4x new tyres so the bargain car isn't that much of a bargain no more? 

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With any used car, could be a pup, why did previous seller want rid, what does it need to put right, throwing money at a knackered car can become more costly than breaking/cutting losses and starting again.

Personally you need spend a few Pennies with Tim for him to cast an initial eye over it to give an idea of 

a. Is it worth throwing money at and

b. How much gets you a decent running car

Always worth considering that you may need to throw a bit of money at a car when you first get it for regular maintenance as anyone who is planning to sell a car in 6 months time or so isn't going to replace parts same as if they were planning to keep for another 2 years.

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soooooo, the humming / juddering coming from the front isn't just the brakes I've been reliably informed I'm gonna need a wheel bearing as well?

    I've just been looking on amazon quickly and from a quick scan the prices go from £15 all the way to £100+?!?  now i know i have the 316mm discs and am wondering which is going to fit? doe need to buy the hub or can i buy a bearing and swap them out like I've been used to before? 

   the product codes are  VOLVO : 9113991 - 272456 - 9173991 - 274298 according to 

 

http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/wheel-hub/bolk-bol-e091131_g653_a999BOL-E091131.html

 

any help would be great, like are they a diy fix like I'm hoping these disc and pads gonna be or is it gonna be tears before bedtime?

Edited by sc77

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As far as I'm aware it's a new hub assembly. If it's a keeper go for OE. If not chance your arm with a pattern part.

 

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Copy hub bearings are as a rule crap, you need to ask how long you plan to keep car and can you do job yourself, my T5 had one noisy bearing bought a pair of Scamtech ones on clearance very cheap, I was only planning about 15,000 more miles b4 scrapping so replaced both, kept the decent original OS one and when NS Scamtech one got noisy after about 10k I fitted the decent original I'd kept. A non genuine is potentially going to fail within 10k (many will testify not just one off experience) genuine probably 100k+ 

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I've just been in touch with the garage and the back brakes are shot, the front pads need replacing as expected but the main thing I'm asking about

 

- they believe that the police spec T5 wheel bearings are different ?  how,  what , why ? which do i need from bullseye if poss for a 2008 reg T5 anybody?

 

thanks

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sooooooo, it goes on,

 

  todays problem is the fan runs constantly and the little display says I'm in reduced power mode (limp mode it isn't - it still goes pretty fast!) but not like it should? i ve looked for any similar symptoms around the forum and it sounds like it might be the EGR valve whatever that is, it looks like its some kind of sensor that gets clogged with oil n stuff? i am losing a lot of oil and this may be linked ?

i do have an odbII sensor if this can be of any use to try diagnose the problem?

 

i have noticed the air noise that i didnt before because of the wheel bearing humming, like a whoosh i think its just the intake but i don't know if thats anything to do with it

  thanks again for any help 

Edited by sc77

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Christ almighty. That car is going to brake the bank. Either break it for parts or sell it on as spares/ repairs imho. Sounds like a true shagnacker.

You won't  have an EGR as they only go in the DERVs. I expect your fans running constantly because your overheating - possibly due to a knackered Head Gasket, although I'm lead to believe that's rare on these motors. You mentioned oil in the water in an earlier post, so if not HG thencould be a split rad (they act like an oil cooler on the manuals). Are you pissing oil out from the bottom of the car? It must be going somewhere if your coolant isn't looking like dirty porridge.

The whoosh could be normal - it has a turbo after all - but could also be signs of a boost leak. Have a good hunt around the engine bay. By the sounds of you must spend half your waking moments under the bonnet.

Good luck. But be realistic, you potentially are about to throw a good few quid down the drain sorting brakes etc...only to discover the engine is foobarred.

cheers, Morgan 

PS might want to get the codes read by someone up your way with VIDA. Either take it to a Volvo indie or main dealer, could be worth a wanted add in the appropriate section. It'll help dramatically pinning down the faults.

 

Edited by shinsplintz 101

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   The guys at the garage had a quick look and its just the coolant making the expansion tank dark colour (its blue btw) , they also thought the oil burning might jus be signs of summit worn in the engine like valve stems ? or summit similar i cant remember, but when they saw 220k on the milage it didnt phase them just put it down to age/milage of car.

  Its had a bit of vandal damage at the weekend and just being sorted now so we see what happens next couple weeks!

 

 

 

 

WP_20170116_15_34_29_Pro.jpg

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all the windows busted out :angry:

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4 hours ago, sc77 said:

   The guys at the garage had a quick look and its just the coolant making the expansion tank dark colour (its blue btw) , they also thought the oil burning might jus be signs of summit worn in the engine like valve stems ? or summit similar i cant remember, but when they saw 220k on the milage it didnt phase them just put it down to age/milage of car.

  Its had a bit of vandal damage at the weekend and just being sorted now so we see what happens next couple weeks!

 

 

 

 

WP_20170116_15_34_29_Pro.jpg

 

Burning engine oil is usually down to something worn in or on the engine, you might want a little bit better diagnosis though before replacing any parts to try and cure it. 

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One of my T5's has about 250,000 miles on it.  Despite this, it doesn't burn oil.  As a result I'd say the burning of oil needs a closer look.  

No offence but the garage may be used to seeing high mileage tat that generally needs to be worked hard and/or stuff that hasn't been maintained well and therefore putting it down to mileage in light of such experience. 

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Ive just got the car back thanks to doncaster national windscreens , i now realise the police spec cars have thicker laminated glass and it would cost £3k to replace all the glass. Luckiky i had vandal damage cover.

Anyway, the code showing is P2188, running rich fuel, the air noise has gotten louder and when you have the fans on medium to high it sounds like they increase as the turbo increases, i think im def leaking air somwhere and hoping i can diagnose and fix it as im pretty poor at the minute!

Any help would be great, thanks

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Start at the air box and work your way to the turbo checking all the hoses you see attached enroute. Remove the rec valve hose from the inlet manifold behind the servo hose and suck on it, if it holds vacuum refit it and move on, if it doesn't replace the rec valve. Whilst following the other hoses one you will of checked has a one way valve, check that and the other valve near it. Check for splits on the 10mm hose on top of the inlet manifold.

You haven't mentioned a bad exhaust manifold blow before so I assume you have missed it not you don't have one. That ought to be fixed as that alone can cause the code you have.

 

If you can have live data looked at by someone competent they will be able to identify vac leaks with your ignition timing values and boost leaks from the MAF value ect. You could have a faulty Lambda sensor but this is unlikely and the switching would show this.

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Thanks for the help, i looked round earlier today and found the problem, their was a split in the intercooler hose the one that runs from  behind the radiator and  down behind the dipstick, just looking around trying to locate one one on a sunday in bucks is not going well,

I'm staying down near high wycombe for the next few days any ideas where i can get a new pipe from anybody?

thanks 


 

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Any Volvo Dealer can get one.

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The oil seems to be burning first few mins when i start the engine its smokey then its ok , i sorted the p2188 code thanks to a new intercooler pipe.

This weeks prob, p2111 code, throttle body open..

 

It was running proper limp mode, id flick the key quick off on thrn it still runs ruduced power mode but not proper limp mode?

 

Thanks for any help

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The fans run more or less constantly btw and are always on when ive parked up after going anywhere

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The cause of your fan running will be evident when live data is looked at.

 

Your description of oil burning isn't accurate enough to pin point the cause. If it smokes the instant the engine turns over it's usually the valve stem seals, if it smokes 2-5 mins after cold start at idle it's usually the turbo. Both are assuming it's got a good serviceable PCV.

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I managed to reset thd code usind my obdII and torque and it seems to be ok at the min.

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