sc77

58 reg 260bhp T5 for £900 ? Yes ill try a bit of that !!

48 posts in this topic

Ive just had this replaced after thinking the engine mount was faulty or even snapped, this hasnt sorted it its still the same,  im not happy with the garage as ive been charged for somthing fitted that hasnt sorted the problem?

 

What do?

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Imbasically getting a clunky noise on gear downs etc, similat to the noise when an engine mounts snapped?

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I'd start with the running problems, as I said looking at live data as resetting the codes won't fix anything.

 

The gearbox tie bar in the pic is knackered but I guess you may have one or more mounts that are in worse condition. If the cam seals are left leaking for years the O/S engine mount will fail, if the PCV leaks badly the front engine mount will fail, if the rear main or turbo leak the rear engine mount fails. They are all very easy to check with a large pry bar from under the car. The top engine mount is clearly visible on top of the head. 

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Thanks for all the help tim, i just hope to have some more money spare in the next couple weeks to get it all sorted.  Im def thinking ive bought a bit of a dog but hey ho what else you gonna get with 260bhp for £900!!

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are there any of the options on the torque app or another app using my OBDII i can use to help diagnose what might be wrong with the engine? im skint at the minute and would like to be able to go to a garage and let them do it but just cant afford it.

JB Rybrook likes this

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This weeks problem,

 

I just had new glass fitted and the trim that runs down the passenger side of the windscreen came loose when i was going a little faster than i shouldve been, it looks like it was fitted and fixed in with something similar to silicone but obv its come loose now and wont refix into it because the top bit is creased as its bent back down across the passenger window whilst driving.  Ive bent it back and fixed it in best i could but im not happy it came loose in the first place? it looks like it had proper clips into these like yellow things attached to the car car but obv theres nothing i can see to attach it back to the car with apart from this black hardened putty type stuff that didnt hold it in place? any ideas?

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im also looking to replace my stereo Hu803 i beleive with a double din one, ive looked at the aftermarket wiring kits and called at a shop today but just finished up confused, according to ebay i can get a wiring kit that uses the round connector and the audio out on the stereo and enables me to carry on using the amp? do i have an amp? the guy at the shop says i just need a kit that connects the grey box and green box at the bcak of my stereo (and an ariel adapter) and im good to go?

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I'm liking your optimism that you'll get a chance to fit the aftermarket radio before the car grinds to a shuddering halt after the mechanical equivalent of "death by a thousand paper cuts"

get the codes read & get the major running issues sorted .....then maybe think about ICE...maybe....

 

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1 hour ago, shinsplintz 101 said:

I'm liking your optimism that you'll get a chance to fit the aftermarket radio before the car grinds to a shuddering halt after the mechanical equivalent of "death by a thousand paper cuts"

get the codes read & get the major running issues sorted .....then maybe think about ICE...maybe....

 

You could learn a thing or two from him, he's getting work done before the car is undrivable;)

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Thanks Tim:blush:...

as Mr Williams has delicately (ever thought of a job with the UN Tim? ) put it:

when the T5s go wrong, and they do go wrong with alarming regularity...then going ostrich will only lead to further, sometimes fatal, issues. Did I mention expensive too? 

 

 

Edited by shinsplintz 101

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i ogt the radio from my old car, its got torque full version on it, the torque lite is pretty basic, im hoping it might help me find out whats wrong with the car.

 

thanks for the help btw

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5 hours ago, shinsplintz 101 said:

I'm liking your optimism that you'll get a chance to fit the aftermarket radio before the car grinds to a shuddering halt after the mechanical equivalent of "death by a thousand paper cuts"

get the codes read & get the major running issues sorted .....then maybe think about ICE...maybe....

 

Perhaps he wants to listen to some music when it's broken down....

 

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23 hours ago, Harvey said:

Perhaps he wants to listen to some music when it's broken down....

 

Ur mum likes to listen to radio 2 whilst "working"

 

Ur pocket money doesnt just magically appear in her purse you know?

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Now, now! Play nice folks.

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Hi,

  Only me!, no problems for a few weeks apart from a blowout doing slightly more than the speedlimit, no way near double the speedlimit , no way near it, so anyway when i realise anpuncture repair hasnt held i had to drive home on a spongey, going flat, went flat ,finished up at home with the drivers side front wheel looking like a tram wheel. (im looking for an alloy to match mine and 2x 225\45\17 btw!)

 

   Anyway, the car wont start, it clicks, it says the anti skid system is disengaged, it says reduced engine mode, service is due, srs airbag service due and jus clicks and wont fire.  i found a disconnected wire ner thebfootpedalsnand cant find to plug it into?

 

any ideas please? i recent had a new blade fitted to my keyfob and the batery came out of my fob but the central locking still work?

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20170428_205028a1.jpg

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this is the bit i cant seem to find the bit it plugs into?

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p0727 engine code is showing, powertrain engine speedinput no signal?

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so i drove it home on the rim an now i have srs airbag , reduced engine power, anti skid is disengaged, low battery, regular service due and thats about it for warning info.

 

a few weeks ago i had the alarm going off for no reason so im def thinking prob with alarm\ immobiliser system, id like to not have to take it to the dealers would any auto electrician be able to diagnose / remedy the problem?

thanks

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You need a mechanic not an auto electrician. Before connecting any computer you ought to have the car check over properly.

For the engine start with cam timing and then a compression test then check for air leaks  ect. 

 

ABS, check sensor rings first. 

 

If if you don't start from the beginning it will just end up wasting everyone's time you ask for help. 

Edited by Tim Williams

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Hi there, your situation sounds similar to my own. I brought a "bargain" 58 plate t5 ex armed response and all seemed great till I got on the motorway on the way home and the temperature dropped. I went through replacing the thermostat then the housing and then ended up replacing the headgasket. Turned the problem was the water hose in the pcv system, where it joins to the head it had split and was leaking steam onto the exhaust manifold. Absolute nightmare but I'm starting to get on top of things now. That gearbox mount you changed makes me think you may have the same issue I have, mine was sloppy so I replaced the bush with some tight fitting rubber hose and it made no difference. It feels horrible pulling away and changing gear smoothly is next to impossible. I had discounted the dmf before as it was changed only 50k ago but now I'm thinking it's gone or going so that's more money down the drain. I'm going to go for a solid flywheel though as I prefer the feeling and it's actually cheaper than fitting a new dmf. The main reason I replied though is that you say your in bucks. Well I'm in Bedford and I have a dice unit so if you wanted to make a trip over here I could read off your codes for you to save you getting ripped off by a main dealer. No charge. 

soulboy likes this

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