adieu

Oil consumption

33 posts in this topic

Would 0.5 ltrs be normal over 800miles? In a s60r with 130k

Some of it was spirited....

 

Or do I need to start looking for a problem? 

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There are too many user variables to be conclusive, firstly have you changed the oil?  If reved over 5500RPM repeatedly and the oil temps rise then that's a very low level of usage.

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The oil was changed only 800 miles ago during a service.  I have exceeded 5.5k a far few times, why would that increase oil usage?

 

At the moment it is heading towards the R needing more oil than my Rx8!!

 

 

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What oil are you using?  0-30 will be consumed quicker than 10-60 for example.

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It's got the recommended volvo oil, I believe it's 5-30.

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IMHO a 5W30 is not suitable for that engine, especially once you have the wear which will be commensurate with that sort of mileage.  Volvo stipulate that the minimum oil pressure the engine should be run at, at idle and an oil temperature of 100 deg C, should be 1 bar - I can guarantee you that you'll not see that minimum oil pressure with a 5W30......:ninja:

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What oil would you recommend? 

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Firstly in terms of brand of oil, I've been using Redline oils for many years - not necessarily the cheapest but the car has held up very well with their products so I see no reason to change.  Other forum members use Shell Helix Ultra 10W60 with good results so that's a good alternative.

As for the viscosity, I go purely on the readings from the oil temp and pressure gauge in the car and have therefore been mixing 2 different grades of Redline oils to get the desired viscosity - for summer road use, I've been mixing 4 quarts of 10W40 and 2 quarts of 10W60 and that gives a reading of approx 1.2bar @ 100 deg C, at idle.  In winter, I run 5 quarts of 10W40 and 1 quart of 15W50 as the oil temps stay much lower and hence pressure is higher, and if it's a particularly cold winter then I've been able to get away with just 10W40 because it's really hard to get the oil temps above 90 deg C.

For track use, I've been mixing 4 quarts of 10W60 with 2 quarts of 10W40 and that has given good results up to oil temps of 135 deg C.  Mind you, the "track ECU" has been recalibrated to have an idle speed of 1000rpm so that helps a fair bit too.

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So, I really need to pop to somewhere like kings and have them check the oil pressure,  oil temp and work out what oil I need to change to. 

Or should I just change the oil for a 10-40 or 10-60? 

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LOL....Ashok....you've properly thrown the cat amongst the Pigeon's now! Mixing oils! Sacre bleu! You'll be lynched by the plebs for that.....

Back to the OP:

I'd suggest a good quality fully synthetic 10/40 for daily driving. For track use, or planned prolonged spirited driving then the 10/60. Loads of brands - redline, gulf, shell helix ultra, Petronas etc....

I use gulf competition in my 2.4 T5 5/40, as a good balance between cost & quality. My car is totally standard. No noticeable loss of oil between changes & I'm doing an oil change every 3 months due to my mileage (450miles plus, a week) & as much as I'd like to use Redline due to its great reputation, I can't justify the additional expense. However in a high performance weekend toy that only gets a thrashing now & again - no expense should be spared - as no matter how expensive the oil, it's always going to be cheaper than an engine rebuild - which is what you will face if with low oil pressure & a hot engine. 

Coming from 850s which I've always run on 10/40 semi I was truly shocked at the piss thin oil that came out of the P2 when I first changed the oil a week after buying it - it was filled with Castrol 0/30 as specified by Volvo & fitted by the PO. I'd already bought the thicker gulf oil after doing a bit of research & was glad I had. Thin oils & old engines is never going to end well!

Good luck. Oil is a minefield of opinion. Just trust your own judgement.

Morgan

 

 

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I think due to the fact that the car doesn't infact travel far and normally only short journeys I'll opt for the 10w60.

Better safe than sorry, I do have a heavy right foot after all. 

Should I change this asap or leave it till the next change I'll be making in Sept?

I could just suck it out the dipstick tube with the pela pump I use on the 8 and refill with the new grade as a stop gap till Sept.

 

And thanks everyone for your advice so far :)

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6 hours ago, adieu said:

So, I really need to pop to somewhere like kings and have them check the oil pressure,  oil temp and work out what oil I need to change to. 

Or should I just change the oil for a 10-40 or 10-60? 

I agree that a good quality 10W40 will probably do the job, but I've never run that through the summer on the car, and been able to monitor temps and pressures so I can't say that for certain.

A 15W50 or higher will more than sufficient, from my own experience.

 

37 minutes ago, shinsplintz 101 said:

LOL....Ashok....you've properly thrown the cat amongst the Pigeon's now! Mixing oils! Sacre bleu! You'll be lynched by the plebs for that.....

Yeah I'm sure I'll wake up to the group assembled and protesting outside my front door tomorrow morning!:lol:

There's nowt wrong with mixing oils from the same manufacturer and from the same range, e.g. a 10W40 and 10W60 Redline Motor Oil.  It's probably not a good idea to mix oils from different manufacturers, however, due to the possibility of different additives etc. - I won't mix Redline Motor Oil and Race Oil of the same grade for that very reason!

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16 hours ago, adieu said:

I think due to the fact that the car doesn't infact travel far and normally only short journeys I'll opt for the 10w60.

Better safe than sorry, I do have a heavy right foot after all. 

Should I change this asap or leave it till the next change I'll be making in Sept?

I could just suck it out the dipstick tube with the pela pump I use on the 8 and refill with the new grade as a stop gap till Sept.

 

And thanks everyone for your advice so far :)

 

I've now got cranks in stock so I can do you an exchange engine supplied and fitted for £1900 but not until September. If you cannot wait or don't want the unnecessary cost then using suitable oil will negate the need for an engine.

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4 hours ago, Tim Williams said:

 

I've now got cranks in stock so I can do you an exchange engine supplied and fitted for £1900 but not until September. If you cannot wait or don't want the unnecessary cost then using suitable oil will negate the need for an engine.

Lol, Tim I think you got the wrong end of the stick, I meant change the oil asap! Not the engine! 

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I think what Tim is saying is change your oil asap.

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Adieu reading between the lines do you have axle stands and kit to change the oil?  If you don't you are welcome to come round (Yate) and I could do it for you.  I have Shell 10-60 'in stock' if required.

Andy

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Are you sure the dealer used 5w-30?  They really should be more educated that it isn't suitable in a modified T5, MRG used to use 10w40 on all 5 pots which were older than 10 years or 100k from memory.

5w30 would have been used and recommended from factory for emissions and economy purposes but its not good for the longevity of the engine (no manufacturer will ever tell you that). You will consume oil at a higher rate than previously, lets hope it hasn't caused any wear to major complements ... September is a long way away so maybe change the oil before you next take the car for a hammering?  It's less than £5/L for shell 10w-60.

Tim advised me from ownership of a T5 that 10w60 is what's proven best, it's not ideal in winter but he has never had an engine fail when using it, but on the other hand seen many fail on 5w30 and 10w40.  He actually sent me a photo of a boot full of this knackered cranks which he had accumulated from ST owners running "piss thin oil" :lolbang:

I am now going to bang my head against a wall after reading Ashoks post, although it makes sense why, I just have no ambition to stock more than one grade, or try to mix it. :lolbang:

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22 hours ago, adieu said:

Lol, Tim I think you got the wrong end of the stick, I meant change the oil asap! Not the engine! 

Ah thanks, I fully understood you. You will need an engine shortly if you carry on driving it with that oil. 

 

I had 13 93.2mm cranks the same as yours damaged last year due to piss thin oil. None of the cars were on track and most were just being driven normally. Not wanting to alarm you but I've had two that didn't make it back from the garages that did the oil changes to xW30. I'm sure you'll be fine though as it's always something that happens to others...

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1 hour ago, Tim Williams said:

Ah thanks, I fully understood you. You will need an engine shortly if you carry on driving it with that oil. 

 

I had 13 93.2mm cranks the same as yours damaged last year due to piss thin oil. None of the cars were on track and most were just being driven normally. Not wanting to alarm you but I've had two that didn't make it back from the garages that did the oil changes to xW30. I'm sure you'll be fine though as it's always something that happens to others...

Thanks Tim, fully understand now. I will get it changed asap. 

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5 hours ago, s40rch said:

Are you sure the dealer used 5w-30?  They really should be more educated that it isn't suitable in a modified T5, MRG used to use 10w40 on all 5 pots which were older than 10 years or 100k from memory.

5w30 would have been used and recommended from factory for emissions and economy purposes but its not good for the longevity of the engine (no manufacturer will ever tell you that). You will consume oil at a higher rate than previously, lets hope it hasn't caused any wear to major complements ... September is a long way away so maybe change the oil before you next take the car for a hammering?  It's less than £5/L for shell 10w-60.

Tim advised me from ownership of a T5 that 10w60 is what's proven best, it's not ideal in winter but he has never had an engine fail when using it, but on the other hand seen many fail on 5w30 and 10w40.  He actually sent me a photo of a boot full of this knackered cranks which he had accumulated from ST owners running "piss thin oil" :lolbang:

I am now going to bang my head against a wall after reading Ashoks post, although it makes sense why, I just have no ambition to stock more than one grade, or try to mix it. :lolbang:

Seems after speaking to the dealer there is some confusion over the oil used. But it would appear it could have been 0w-30! Or 5w-30 as it's not been put on the service report I'll never know for sure.

Off to get a new filter and sump plug washer and maybe try changing it myself on the drive or take Andy up on his offer of help, but after tims comments lm not sure I even want to drive to yate from Swindon!

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That is a bit worrying that an you can have imminent engine failure from just changing to piss thin oil, I'm guessing the damage had already been done in those cases?

I'm not sure if you have one but Andy also has a dice so will be able to read your oil pressure to make sure it hasn't done any damage. Lets just be glad you asked the question after 800 miles rather than 8000 :) 

If I can be of any assistance I'm only in Devizes/Calne, I don't however have enough stock of 10w60 currently or a dice :) 

Edited by s40rch

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I do have dice, but trying to find somewhere local to get shell 10-60 is proving difficult,  might just have to bite the bullet and get 7 x 1 ltr cans from carparts4u

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You wont get it off the shelf usually, maybe at ECP but for a high price, its under £100 for a 20L drum from mytyres found on google shopping.

Or take the M4 down to the cave in Yate :)

Edited by s40rch
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Oil found online £48 for 6ltrs, oil filter wrench ordered, new genuine filter and washer to collect from volvo tomorrow.  Hopefully it'll be fairly easy.

 

Have I forgotten anything?

I think I will still pop over and see Andy one evening if he doesn't mind to find out how to read the oil pressure etc with dice as I haven't really got a clue on how to do it.

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14 hours ago, s40rch said:

I am now going to bang my head against a wall after reading Ashoks post, although it makes sense why, I just have no ambition to stock more than one grade, or try to mix it. :lolbang:

The reason I have 2 different grades of oil is thankfully the T4 only needs a 10W40 even with track usage as it does not suffer from the pressure losses that the Blessed 5-pots do!!  I like to try and have a suitable viscosity for the intended purpose as I've found that an oil which is too thick does have its fair share of issues too!

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